25mm Miniatures: Scale, Uses, and How to Choose, Paint, or Commission Them

25mm miniatures are figures sized so that a typical human stands roughly 25mm from the base of the feet to eye level. In practice, the hobby treats 25mm and 28mm as one working scale: manufacturers, terrain makers, and painting services usually group them together as "25/28mm." That grouping matters because a 28mm figure and a 25mm figure from a different range can look mismatched side by side even though both are sold as the same nominal scale. If you are buying, painting, or commissioning figures for historical wargames, fantasy or sci-fi skirmish, roleplaying, or display, 25/28mm is the scale with the widest choice of figures, terrain, and accessories — and the one most commission painters quote for by default.

What "25mm" actually measures

The number refers to a nominal human height, not the total height of the model. A 25mm human is measured from the soles of the feet to the eyes; the top of the head, any helmet, and the base add more. That is why two "25mm" figures can differ noticeably in overall height.

Because the measurement is nominal, real ranges drift. Some lines run closer to 25mm, others to 28mm, and heroic-proportioned fantasy figures often have larger heads and hands than true-scale historicals. When you mix manufacturers in one unit, compare a photo of the actual figures or check the base-to-eye measurement rather than trusting the label alone.

Why 25mm and 28mm are sold together

The two sizes share basing conventions, terrain, and tabletop distances closely enough that retailers and painters list them as one category. A painting service that advertises "25/28mm" is telling you it handles both without a separate setup. For practical purposes, treat 25/28mm as a single scale and check individual figure proportions when mixing brands.

How 25/28mm compares with other scales

The trade-off is straightforward. Smaller scales let you field more figures per unit and finish an army faster; 25/28mm gives each figure enough surface for individual detail, which suits skirmish games, character models, and roleplaying. If your goal is a large ranked army on a budget of time, 15mm or 6mm usually serves better. If your goal is characterful individual figures you can pick out on the table, 25/28mm is the common choice.

Choosing figures, bases, and terrain at this scale

• Figures: Decide first whether you want true-scale historical proportions or heroic fantasy proportions, then stay within that style for a given project. Mixing styles within one unit is the most common source of "something looks off."
• Bases: 25/28mm figures are normally based individually for skirmish and roleplaying, or on movement trays for ranked games. Check the base size your ruleset expects before you glue anything down.
• Terrain and accessories: Most terrain, buildings, and scatter made for 28mm works with 25mm figures. Very tight interiors or vehicles scaled to a specific range may not fit figures from another.
• Compatibility check: Before committing to a range, confirm base diameter, figure height, and whether the models are single-piece, multi-part, or 3D printed, since assembly needs differ.

Painting them yourself vs. commissioning

Painting 25/28mm figures yourself gives you full control and no shipping risk, but it is the slowest option per figure because of the detail area. Commissioning shifts the time cost to someone else and is worth considering when you have more figures than spare hours, when you want a consistent standard across a unit, or when you are starting a new period and want it table-ready quickly.

A commission service such as Fernando Enterprises describes itself as painting metal or plastic figures from 6mm to 54mm at either gaming quality or museum standard, and lists 25/28mm within its covered sizes alongside historical, fantasy, and Zinnfiguren subjects. If you are evaluating any service, including this one, the useful questions are the same:

• What quality tiers are offered, and what does each look like on a finished example?
• Which materials and scales are accepted?
• How are figures packed and shipped, and who covers postage and return shipping?
• What is the expected turnaround, and how are delays handled?
• What happens if a figure is damaged or a paint scheme does not match the brief?

The site notes that customers send orders in and that postal and courier services are operating, and it points to a "How to Send" page and a painting-charges page for the practical details. It does not publish prices in the material available here, so treat cost as something to confirm directly rather than assume.

What to prepare before sending figures

1. Clean and, if needed, assemble the figures, or confirm with the service whether they prefer to receive them unassembled.
2. Decide the quality tier and, if you have one, supply a colour scheme, reference images, or a painted example to match.
3. Pack figures so parts cannot rub or bend in transit, and label the contents clearly.
4. Agree on the return address, shipping method, and who pays each leg before dispatch.
5. Keep a list of what you sent so you can check the return against it.

Common problems and how to avoid them

• Scale mismatch: Two "25mm" ranges that differ in proportion look wrong in one unit. Compare actual measurements or photos before mixing.
• Basing surprises: A figure that fits your ruleset's base may not fit a movement tray or a vehicle interior. Check dimensions first.
• Assembly gaps: Multi-part metal and plastic figures often need filling at the joints; decide whether you or the painter handles this.
• Shipping damage: Thin weapons, banners, and ankles are the usual casualties. Reinforce or pack with padding, and clarify damage responsibility up front.
• Undefined brief: "Paint them like the box" is ambiguous across ranges. Supply a specific reference to avoid rework.

If you are new to the scale, start with a small batch — one unit or a handful of characters — before committing a whole army to a painter or a single manufacturer. That single step catches proportion, basing, and brief problems while they are still cheap to fix.