How to Choose a Hockey Stick: Flex, Curve, Length, and Budget Buying Guide

Pick a stick by matching four specs to your body and your game: flex (roughly half your body weight in pounds, adjusted for strength and position), curve (the pattern that fits how you shoot and pass), length (cut to your height and stance), and kick point (low, mid, or hybrid, depending on whether you lean toward quick wristers or big slap shots). Then choose a price tier you can replace without regret. HockeyMonkey's stick listings and its CCM JetSpeed FTW Pro review both show how these specs are presented on product pages, and the site's current promotions (for example, 25% off Bauer Nexus sticks and up to 40% off select CCM) are a useful reminder that timing a purchase around a sale can move you up a tier for the same money.

Flex: Start With Body Weight, Then Adjust

Flex measures how much force (in pounds) it takes to bend the shaft. A lower number bends more easily and loads more energy for most recreational players; a higher number stays stiff and rewards strong, fast shooters.

The common rule of thumb is flex ≈ half your body weight in pounds. A 170 lb player starts around 85; a 130 lb player around 65. Then adjust:

• Go softer if you're new, shoot mostly wrist shots, or play defense and value quick passes.
• Go stiffer if you have a hard, fast release and take slap shots, or if you're a larger player who overpowers soft sticks.
• Check the cut. Shortening a stick raises its effective flex. Cutting two inches off an 85-flex stick can push it toward 95–100, which is why tall players sometimes buy a stiffer stick and cut it down.

If you're unsure, err softer. A stick you can flex is more useful than one you can't load.

Curve and Blade: Match Your Shooting Style

The curve (blade pattern) affects puck control, shot height, and backhand passing. Most retail patterns fall into a few families:

• Mid curve — balanced, good for beginners, reliable backhands and forehands.
• Toe curve — good for quick releases and pulling the puck in tight; backhands are harder.
• Heel curve — stable for slap shots and puck protection along the boards.
• Open face — lifts the puck easily; harder to keep shots down.
• Closed face — flatter, more accurate shots; less lift.

Practical guidance:

1. New players should start with a mid or slight-toe curve with a moderate face — it's the most forgiving for passing and receiving.
2. Snipers who shoot high often prefer an open face; players who keep shots low and accurate lean closed.
3. Defensemen and playmakers often favor a mid curve for clean outlet passes.
4. Don't switch patterns constantly. Pick one, learn its release, and only change if a specific weakness (backhand, shot height) persists.

Lie (the angle between blade and shaft) matters too: a lie of 5–6 suits most players; a very upright stance may need a higher lie, a crouched stance a lower one. If the blade's heel or toe wears unevenly, your lie is off.

Length: Cut to Your Stance, Not Just Your Height

Stick length is usually measured from the heel of the blade to the top of the shaft. A rough starting point for adults is a stick that reaches between your chin and nose when standing in skates (or roughly your chin in shoes). Then refine:

• Forwards often prefer a shorter stick (chin height) for quick hands and close control.
• Defensemen often prefer a longer stick (nose height or above) for reach and blocking.
• Cut in small increments (half an inch at a time), re-check your stance, and remember each cut stiffens the flex.
• Grip position matters: choking up shortens your effective reach but improves control in tight spaces.

If you're between sizes, buy slightly long and cut down — you can't add length back.

Kick Point: Low, Mid, or Hybrid

Kick point is where the shaft flexes and releases energy. It changes how the stick feels on different shots.

HockeyMonkey's review of the CCM JetSpeed FTW Pro describes a hybrid kick point with a soft RR-95 blade, which is the kind of design aimed at players who want a quick release without giving up too much on heavier shots. If you mostly take wristers from the slot, a low kick point is the natural fit; if you're a point shooter, mid is safer.

Budget: Entry, Mid, and High Tier

Sticks are priced largely by material and weight. Higher tiers use lighter, more consistent carbon layups; lower tiers are heavier and less durable but fine for learning.

• Entry tier — best for beginners, kids, and players who break sticks often. Heavier, but the flex and curve options still matter more than the price tag.
• Mid tier — the sweet spot for most recreational adults: noticeably lighter than entry, more durable than top-end.
• High tier — lightest and most responsive, but expensive and often less durable. Worth it only if you play frequently and notice the weight difference.

A practical approach: buy mid-tier for your primary stick and entry-tier for a backup. Then watch for promotions — the site currently advertises 25% off Bauer Nexus sticks, up to 40% off select CCM, and up to 50% off select Bauer gear, which can put a higher tier within a mid-tier budget. Membership (Rebound Rewards, up to 7% back plus free shipping) is another lever if you buy gear regularly.

Before You Check Out

• Confirm flex after cutting. Decide your final length first, then pick the flex.
• Check the return and warranty policy on the product page — stick warranties are typically short and may exclude breakage from misuse.
• Verify curve and lie against what you currently use; a big jump in pattern feels wrong for weeks.
• Buy one, not three. Test the flex and curve in a few skates before committing to a second stick.
• Time it with a sale if you're not in a hurry; the promotions above rotate.

If you're still assembling a full kit, the same logic — fit first, tier second, sale third — applies to skates, helmets, and gloves, which HockeyMonkey covers in its gear guides alongside sticks.