How to Solve the Cross in CFOP Speedcubing
Updated
The cross is the first step of CFOP: you build a plus sign of four edge pieces around one center, and in standard CFOP you build it on the bottom. The goal is to finish it in 8 moves or fewer while planning the whole thing during the 15-second inspection, so your hands start moving the moment the timer does. This guide covers what the cross is, how to plan it, how to stay efficient, and the mistakes that keep beginners stuck at 4–5 seconds on a step that should take 1–2.
What the cross actually is
A cross is four edge pieces placed around a center so that each edge matches both its center colors. If you solve white on the bottom, you need the white-red, white-blue, white-orange, and white-green edges sitting in the bottom layer, with each edge's side color aligned to the matching side center.
Two conditions define a finished cross:
- All four edges are in the bottom layer.
- Each edge's side sticker matches the center it touches.
An edge that is in the bottom layer but rotated wrong, or aligned to the wrong center, is not solved. This matters because F2L assumes the cross is correct — a misaligned cross edge means you will hunt for a piece that is already "placed" but wrong.
Why the bottom layer
Solving the cross on the bottom means you never have to look at it again. The solved cross stays out of sight while you work on F2L in the top and middle layers, and you can verify it by feel and by the side stickers alone. Solving on top forces a cube rotation (or a full re-inspection) before F2L, which costs time and breaks the flow between steps.
If you are coming from a beginner method that solves the cross on top, the switch is uncomfortable for a few days and then strictly better. Commit to bottom.
Planning the cross during inspection
Inspection is where the cross is actually won or lost. You get 15 seconds; use most of it on the cross, not on staring at the cube.
A workable routine:
- Pick your color. Most solvers fix one cross color (commonly white) so planning becomes automatic. Color neutrality — solving whichever cross is easiest — is faster in theory but a separate skill; do not mix it in while you are still learning to plan one color.
- Find all four edges. Locate each cross edge and note its position and orientation in your head.
- Choose an order and a solution. Decide which edge goes first, how the others follow, and whether any move solves two edges at once.
- Count the moves. If your plan is over 8 moves, look for a better one before you start.
- Track the first F2L pair if you can. Once cross planning is comfortable, use the leftover inspection time to spot a corner-edge pair. This is the bridge to F2L.
The hard part is not finding the edges — it is holding the whole plan in your head while executing. Start by planning 2–3 moves, then 4–5, and build up. Planning a full cross under 8 moves is a trainable skill, not a talent.
Tracking pieces instead of memorizing moves
Beginners memorize a move sequence and lose track when the cube looks different than expected. Stronger solvers track pieces: "this edge goes down here, which pushes that edge to the top, which I then insert." If you track where pieces end up, a wrong turn is recoverable because you still know the state. If you only memorized moves, a wrong turn means starting over.
Efficiency: 8 moves or fewer, no rotations
The cross is short enough that small inefficiencies dominate your time. Two rules carry most of the benefit.
Solve in 8 moves or fewer. The cross has a low theoretical maximum, and most scrambles allow 4–6 moves with practice. If your solution is 10+ moves, you are almost certainly inserting edges one at a time instead of letting one move set up the next.
Avoid cube rotations. Rotating the cube during the cross wastes time and makes the rest of your plan harder to execute. Solve the cross in the orientation you inspected it in. Rotations during F2L are sometimes necessary; during the cross they are almost always avoidable.
Other habits that help:
- Use the bottom and side layers. Most cross solutions are built with D, R, L, U, and F moves. Slice moves (M, E, S) are rarely the efficient choice here.
- Solve relative positions, not absolute ones. You do not need each edge in its final spot immediately; you need the four edges correctly arranged relative to each other. Then one D or D' aligns the whole cross to the centers.
- Let one insertion fix another. A single R or L turn can drop one edge into place while bringing another edge to a better position.
A quick example
Suppose the white-red edge is in the top layer with white facing up, and the white-blue edge is in the middle layer. Instead of turning the top to bring white-red over its slot and inserting it, then separately handling white-blue, look for a turn that places white-red while moving white-blue closer to the bottom. Two edges per move is the difference between a 6-move cross and a 10-move one.
Common beginner mistakes
| Mistake | Why it costs time | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Solving the cross on top | Requires a rotation or re-inspection before F2L | Always build on the bottom |
| Inserting one edge at a time | Inflates the cross to 10+ moves | Plan an order where moves set up later edges |
| Not planning during inspection | You solve reactively, move by move | Plan at least 3–4 moves before starting |
| Rotating the cube mid-cross | Breaks your mental plan and adds time | Stay in the inspection orientation |
| Aligning edges to the wrong centers | Cross looks done but is wrong; F2L breaks | Check each side sticker against its center |
| Spending all 15 seconds on the cross | No time to find the first F2L pair | Plan the cross first, then scan for a pair |
The "one edge at a time" habit is the most common and the most costly. It feels safe because each edge is a small, verifiable task, but it turns a 5-move cross into a 12-move one and trains you to solve reactively instead of planning.
When to move on to F2L
Move on when the cross is solved and aligned — all four bottom edges matching their centers — and you have at least a rough idea of where one F2L pair is. Do not stop to admire the cross or re-check it; the side stickers confirm it as you transition.
A reasonable progression:
- First: solve the cross on the bottom, any number of moves, no timer.
- Then: plan the full cross during inspection and finish in 8 moves or fewer.
- Then: use leftover inspection time to locate the first F2L pair.
- Then: push cross time toward 1–2 seconds.
If your cross is consistently under 2 seconds and you can usually spot a pair during inspection, the cross is no longer your bottleneck — F2L is. That is the signal to shift your practice there.
If you want structured cross and EOLine/EOCross practice, trainers built for CFOP and ZZ (like the ones at crystalcuber.com) let you drill the first step in isolation instead of running full solves.