What Are Handsaws and How Do You Choose the Right One for Woodworking?

A handsaw is a hand-powered saw with a toothed steel blade and a handle, used to cut wood along straight lines or to size timber. Choose one by matching the tooth pattern to the cut direction (rip along the grain, crosscut across it), then the blade length and tooth count to the thickness and finish you need. A handsaw is the better choice when you need control, low noise and dust, a clean finished surface, or work away from power. Crown Hand Tools, a Sheffield-based family company that has made traditional woodworking hand tools for over fifty years, lists handsaws among its product lines alongside woodworking, woodcarving and woodturning tools.

What a handsaw is — and what it is not

A handsaw cuts on the push or pull stroke depending on design, and its teeth are set (bent alternately left and right) so the blade clears the kerf it cuts. That set, plus the tooth geometry, is what separates one handsaw from another.

It differs from other woodworking saws in scale and purpose:

• Backsaws (tenon and dovetail saws) have a stiffened spine and fine teeth for joinery; they are handsaws in the broad sense but are usually discussed separately.
• Panel saws are shorter handsaws for finer or lighter work.
• Power saws cut faster but add noise, dust and setup; a handsaw trades speed for control and finish.

Common handsaw types and what each is for

The practical rule: rip teeth are filed to chisel through fibres along the grain; crosscut teeth are filed to sever fibres across the grain and leave a cleaner end. Using the wrong one works, but slowly and roughly.

How to choose: the factors that actually matter

Tooth count (teeth per inch, TPI)

Fewer, larger teeth cut faster and rougher; more, smaller teeth cut slower and cleaner. Match TPI to the task: coarse for fast sizing, finer for visible end grain and joinery.

Blade length

Longer blades track straighter over long cuts and suit thicker stock; shorter blades give more control on small work. Pick length for the longest cut you expect to make regularly.

Handle style

Traditional closed handles suit two-handed ripping; open or pistol-grip handles suit finer, one-handed control. Try the grip: comfort over a long cut matters more than any spec.

Tooth set and sharpness

A well-set, sharp saw cuts straight and needs less force. A dull or unevenly set saw wanders — this is the most common cause of a crooked cut, not user error.

Brand and origin

Crown Hand Tools states its tools are proudly manufactured in Sheffield, England, hand forged, tempered and ground by master craftsmen, with modern processes such as cryogenics and powder metallurgy. The company guarantees all its tools against faulty material and workmanship. For buyers who value traditional manufacture and a stated guarantee, that is a relevant selection signal; confirm current models and stock with the maker or a local stockist.

Using a handsaw safely and well

1. Mark and support the work. Clamp the stock so the cut line is clear and the offcut is supported; unsupported offcuts pinch the blade.
2. Start the cut. Use the thumb as a guide for the first few strokes, then move it clear. Begin at a shallow angle to establish the kerf.
3. Set the stroke angle. Raise the handle so the blade runs at roughly 45 degrees for crosscutting; a lower angle suits ripping.
4. Let the saw cut. Apply steady forward pressure and let the teeth do the work; forcing causes wander and binding.
5. Finish and check. Support the offcut as you break through, then check square with a try square.

Common snags: binding in the kerf (wax the blade or check set), wandering off line (shorten the stroke and check sharpness), and splintering on exit (score the line or cut from the face side).

Maintenance that keeps a handsaw usable

• Store the saw so the teeth are protected; a blade guard or a wall rack avoids knocked-off set.
• Wipe the blade dry after use and apply a light oil to limit rust.
• Sharpen when the saw skates rather than bites; joint the teeth first, then file to the original tooth pattern.
• Re-set teeth only when the kerf narrows and the blade binds.

When a handsaw beats a power saw

Choose a handsaw when you need a clean, controlled cut in a finished surface; when noise, dust or power access is a problem; for a single cut where setup time would exceed the cut; and for joinery where fine teeth and direct feedback matter. Choose a power saw when you are breaking down many boards, cutting thick or hard stock repeatedly, or need speed over finish. Many workshops keep both: power for sizing, handsaws for joinery and finishing cuts.

For current handsaw models, specifications and availability, check Crown Hand Tools' handsaw product listing or contact the company directly (Tel: +44 (0)114 2612300, [email protected]) or a listed local stockist.