What Is an Electric Exhaust Cutout and How Does It Work?

Updated

An electric exhaust cutout is a motorized valve that bolts into your exhaust pipe and lets you divert exhaust gas out through a short, open dump instead of through the rest of the system. You open and close it from inside the car with a switch or remote, so you can go from a quiet, full-exhaust setup to a loud, near-straight-pipe sound without crawling under the vehicle. It's the powered version of a manual cutout, which uses a plate you unbolt or a cable you pull by hand. Quick Time Performance (QTP) builds electric cutouts in the USA and sells them as universal parts sized to your existing exhaust pipe diameter, so the main thing you need to know before buying is your pipe size.

How an electric exhaust cutout works

The cutout is a Y-shaped or flanged housing that installs in a section of your exhaust. Inside is a butterfly-style valve driven by a small electric motor. When the valve opens, exhaust takes the path of least resistance and exits through the cutout opening (often called a dump or "screamer") rather than continuing through the muffler and tailpipe. When it closes, exhaust flows normally through the rest of the system.

The basic parts:

  • Housing and valve — the body that welds or clamps into the pipe, plus the butterfly plate that seals the opening.
  • Electric motor/actuator — turns the valve open and closed on command.
  • Wiring — power and ground to the motor, usually run to a switch inside the cabin.
  • Controller — a toggle switch, or on some kits a wireless remote, that sends the open/close signal.

Because the valve is motorized, you can open it partially or fully, which is useful if you want a moderate sound increase rather than a full dump.

What it changes (and what it doesn't)

Opening a cutout mainly changes sound and exhaust flow path. With the valve open, exhaust exits before the muffler, so the vehicle gets noticeably louder. Whether that translates into a measurable power gain depends on your engine, tuning, and how restrictive the factory system is — a cutout is not a guaranteed horsepower adder on its own, and on some vehicles an open cutout can hurt low-end torque or drivability. Treat the sound change as the reliable outcome and the performance change as something that varies by setup.

Fitment: the factor that decides whether it works

QTP notes that its electric cutouts are universal by design and are sorted according to your existing exhaust pipe size. That means:

  • Measure your exhaust pipe diameter first. The cutout has to match the pipe it's going into.
  • Universal ≠ bolt-on for every vehicle. You (or a shop) may need to cut and weld or clamp the cutout into place.
  • Vehicle-specific options exist for some applications. QTP's site has a "Shop By Vehicle" tool, and if your vehicle isn't listed, the universal cutouts are the path — pick by pipe size or contact them.

QTP's catalog also separates product lines worth knowing:

Category What it is
Electric exhaust cutouts Standard powered cutout valves
Low profile electric cutouts Slimmer body for tight clearance
DIY fabricator electric cutouts For custom builds
Wireless remote controllers and clips Remote operation instead of a dash switch
Aggressor electric cutout pipes Cutout integrated into a pipe section
Screamer / Twintronic / Exhaust Eliminator Related exhaust sound and system products
Exhaust systems, AR3 mufflers Full systems and mufflers

Installation and operation considerations

  • Clearance. The cutout body and motor need room, and the dump opening should point somewhere that won't blast hot exhaust at wiring, fuel lines, or the ground under the cabin. Low-profile versions exist specifically for tight spots.
  • Sealing. A cutout that doesn't seal well when closed will leak and stay loud. Check the valve seats properly in the closed position.
  • Controller choice. A hardwired switch is simple; a wireless remote (QTP sells remote controllers and clips) avoids running wires through the firewall but adds a battery-powered remote to keep track of.
  • Wiring and power. The motor needs a switched power source and a good ground. Plan the route before you start cutting.
  • Local noise rules. An open cutout is loud. Some areas restrict exhaust noise or require the valve to be closed on public roads — check before you install.

Quick buying checklist

  1. Measure your exhaust pipe diameter.
  2. Decide standard vs. low-profile based on clearance.
  3. Choose switch or wireless remote control.
  4. Confirm whether a vehicle-specific option exists, or go universal by pipe size.
  5. Plan the install (weld/clamp) and wiring route.

For current pricing, vehicle listings, and the full category breakdown, check Quick Time Performance directly — the site lists sale prices on featured products (for example, a 2016–2024 Camaro SS Screamer axle-back at a listed sale price) and provides a contact option if your vehicle isn't in the Shop By Vehicle tool.