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What is Quick Time Performance?
Quick Time Performance is a US manufacturer of aftermarket exhaust hardware, best known for electric exhaust cutouts — valves that let a driver route exhaust through a straight-through path for a louder, freer-flowing sound, then close it again for normal driving. The company's own site describes it as the "Home of the Quick Time Electric Exhaust Cutout" and states its products are made in the USA.
Its catalog goes beyond cutouts into complete exhaust systems, mufflers and components. From the site's navigation and product listings:
- Electric exhaust cutouts — standard, low-profile and DIY fabricator versions
- Controls — wireless remote controllers and clips
- Cutout pipes — Aggressor and Screamer lines
- Full exhaust — Twintronic, Exhaust Eliminator, exhaust systems and AR3 mufflers
- Vehicle shopping — a "Shop By Vehicle" tool, with a note that cutouts are universal by design and selected by existing exhaust pipe diameter
Who it's for
Two audiences stand out. The first is a car owner who wants a switchable sound and flow change without replacing the whole exhaust — a universal cutout matched to pipe size is the direct route. The second is a fabricator or shop building a custom system, served by the DIY fabricator cutouts and raw components. The site's vehicle lookup and category browsing suggest both paths are supported.
What to weigh
A cutout changes noise dramatically and may not pass local noise or emissions rules where you drive; check that first. Universal fit means measuring your pipe diameter rather than trusting a vehicle listing. Full systems like the Screamer axle-back and cat-back options are a bigger commitment in both cost and installation effort than a cutout alone.
Next step
If you only want a louder exhaust on demand, start with the electric cutout category and confirm your pipe size. If you want a matched system, use Shop By Vehicle first. For comparison shopping on general exhaust categories, Summit Racing and JEGS carry broad aftermarket exhaust inventories.
How do I find the right electric exhaust cutout for my vehicle?
Start with your exhaust pipe diameter, not your vehicle's year, make and model. Quick Time Performance's own note says its electric cutouts are universal by design and sorted by your existing exhaust pipe size, so the fitment question is a measurement question first. Once you know the pipe size, choose the cutout family that matches how you will use it.
Step 1: Measure your exhaust pipe Find a straight section of pipe where a cutout can be welded in, usually before the muffler or after the headers, and measure the outside diameter. If you cannot find your vehicle in the Shop By Vehicle list, that is expected for cutouts; use the pipe size instead.
Step 2: Decide what "right" means for you
- Sound on demand: An electric cutout lets you open a path that bypasses the muffler for a louder exhaust note, then close it for normal driving.
- Ground clearance: A low-profile electric cutout is the safer choice on lowered cars or vehicles with tight undercarriage space.
- Custom builds: DIY fabricator cutouts suit people welding their own system rather than buying a vehicle-specific kit.
- Control preference: Wireless remote controllers and clips matter if you do not want to run a switch through the cabin.
- Complete systems: If you want a full exhaust rather than a cutout alone, the Screamer, Twintronic, Exhaust Eliminator, AR3 and muffler categories are separate product lines.
Step 3: Match the cutout to the rest of the exhaust A cutout is only one part of the system. On a 2016–2024 Chevrolet Camaro SS, for example, the QTP Screamer Axle Back Quad Tip with black tips is listed at $1,788.04, sale $1,686.83, and the 2018–2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk Screamer Cat Back with black tips is listed at $3,403.53, sale $3,210.88. Those are complete systems, not cutouts, and show how much more a full bolt-on costs than adding a cutout to an existing exhaust.
A practical decision path
- Measure pipe outside diameter.
- Pick standard, low-profile or DIY fabricator based on space and skill.
- Choose wired switch or wireless remote.
- Confirm the cutout is legal for street use where you drive; many areas restrict exhaust noise or bypassing emissions equipment.
- If you cannot identify the size or a vehicle listing, contact the manufacturer before ordering.
For the universal cutout categories and vehicle-specific systems, see Quick Time Performance. If you are comparing full cat-back systems from other brands, a known reference is Borla, though always verify pipe diameter and local noise rules before buying.
What is the difference between the Screamer and Aggressor exhaust systems?
The Screamer and Aggressor names sit on two different rungs of Quick Time Performance's lineup rather than being two finishes of the same system. The Aggressor appears on the site as an electric cutout pipe product, while the Screamer is used for complete exhaust systems — the page's own hot products show Screamer axle-back and cat-back systems with quad or black tips.
That distinction matters more than the badge. If you want the loud/quiet switch without replacing your existing exhaust, you are shopping in the cutout and cutout-pipe family (Electric Exhaust Cutouts, Low Profile Electric Cutouts, DIY Fabricator Electric Cutouts, Aggressor Electric Cutout Pipes, plus wireless remote controllers and clips). If you want a full replacement exhaust with the cutout technology built into a finished system, the Screamer listings are the ones to compare.
What each name points to
- Aggressor: electric cutout pipe hardware. It bolts into an exhaust stream to give you an open, unrestricted path on demand, and it is the kind of part a fabricator or exhaust shop installs into a system you already have.
- Screamer: complete exhaust systems. The page shows Screamer systems for specific vehicles (for example, a 2016–2024 Chevrolet Camaro SS axle-back quad-tip setup and a 2018–2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk cat-back), so the buying decision starts with your vehicle rather than with a pipe diameter.
How to choose
- Decide whether you are modifying an existing exhaust or replacing it. Modification points to Aggressor/cutout parts; replacement points to Screamer.
- If you are replacing, start at Shop By Vehicle and confirm a listing exists for your year, make and model.
- If you are modifying, note the site's own guidance: electric cutouts are universal by design and are sorted by your existing exhaust pipe size, so measure your pipe before ordering.
- Think about control. The cutout route typically involves a switch or a wireless remote, and the site lists wireless remote controllers and clips separately, so factor that into the install.
H3: Trade-offs and a practical example A cutout pipe is the cheaper, more surgical route: you keep your current mufflers and tips, gain an on-demand open exhaust note, and accept that installation involves cutting and fitting. A full Screamer system is the tidier route: matched tubing, tips and fitment for a specific vehicle, but a larger purchase and a bigger install. Someone with a daily-driven Camaro who mostly wants a louder note on weekends is a natural cutout/Aggressor candidate; someone who also wants new tips, tubing and a finished look is better served by the vehicle-specific Screamer listing.
Next step: open the site's Shop By Vehicle section and search your model. If nothing matches, use the category list and the pipe-size note for the cutout products, or contact them directly — the page explicitly invites that for vehicles not listed.
Are Quick Time Performance exhaust cutouts compatible with stock exhaust systems?
Yes, in most cases. Quick Time Performance (QTP) designs its electric exhaust cutouts as universal parts rather than vehicle-specific ones, so compatibility is determined mainly by matching the cutout to your existing exhaust pipe diameter — not by your car's make or model. The product page notes that if you can't find your vehicle listed, the electric cutouts are "universal by design and are sorted according to your existing exhaust pipe size." See Quick Time Performance.
What to check before ordering
- Pipe diameter at the install point. Measure the outside diameter of the section of stock piping where you plan to cut. QTP sorts cutouts by pipe size, so this is the deciding number.
- Where you want the cutout. A cutout is typically welded or clamped into a straight, accessible run of pipe — often after the headers or downpipe and before the muffler. Tight bends, heat shielding, or a very short mid-pipe can rule a spot out.
- Ground clearance and routing. A cutout body and its motor add bulk and hang below the pipe. Lowered cars and vehicles with minimal tunnel clearance need a low-profile option.
- Wiring and control. Electric cutouts need power and a switch or remote. QTP lists wireless remote controllers and clips as separate categories, so plan for where the switch goes and how the wiring is routed.
- Sound and legality. An open cutout is very loud and is not street-legal in many jurisdictions. Most owners run it closed on the street and open at the track.
Practical next step
Put the car on ramps or jack stands, measure the pipe where you'd install the cutout, and confirm there's room for the motor and wiring. Then pick the cutout in that pipe size, and add a controller if you want in-cab or remote operation. If your vehicle isn't listed under "Shop By Vehicle," that's expected — the cutouts are universal, and QTP's page invites you to contact them if you need help matching one.
For a mostly stock daily driver, a single cutout placed before the muffler gives the biggest sound change for the least work. If you want a full bolt-on system instead, QTP also sells cat-back and axle-back systems such as the Screamer line, which are vehicle-specific and avoid any cutting.
How do I install an electric exhaust cutout on my car or truck?
An electric exhaust cutout is a Y-pipe with a motorized valve blade. When closed, exhaust flows through your stock system; when open, it dumps straight out for sound and a freer path. Quick Time Performance's site organizes its cutouts into universal categories — standard electric cutouts, low-profile versions, DIY fabricator pieces, and the Aggressor pipe kits — sorted by your existing exhaust pipe diameter rather than by vehicle, which tells you the core of the job: you are splicing a branch into an existing pipe, not bolting on a vehicle-specific part. Its own note says the cutouts are universal by design and sorted by pipe size, and that you should contact them if your vehicle isn't listed.
H3 Planning before you cut
- Measure your pipe's outside diameter at the spot you intend to cut. Cutout sizes are matched to that, so a wrong measurement means a wrong part.
- Pick a location with room for the Y-branch, the valve motor, and the wiring. The valve body and its motor need clearance from the floorpan, heat shields, suspension travel and the driveshaft.
- Decide single or dual. One cutout on a single exhaust is the simple case; dual exhaust usually means either two cutouts or one placed after the merge point.
- Check local noise rules. An open cutout is loud, and some jurisdictions and inspection programs treat a cutout that dumps before the muffler as non-compliant on street-driven vehicles.
H3 The installation, step by step
- Lift and support the vehicle safely on jack stands or a lift, with the exhaust cool.
- Mark and cut the pipe at your chosen point using a reciprocating saw or exhaust cutter. Deburr the cut ends.
- Test-fit the Y-pipe. The branch should angle so the dump points away from the body, fuel lines and wiring, and so the motor sits where you can reach it.
- Weld or clamp it in. Welding gives a permanent, leak-free joint; band clamps let you reposition later but demand clean, round, correctly sized pipe. Whichever you choose, seal the joints — a leaking cutout is noisy even when closed.
- Mount the valve and motor. Bolt the cutout to the Y flange, and support the assembly so the weight isn't hanging on the pipe weld. Vibration is what cracks exhaust joints.
- Run the wiring. Route the motor lead away from exhaust heat and moving parts, through a grommet in the floor or firewall, to a switched 12V source. Add an inline fuse. QTP sells wireless remote controllers and clips if you prefer a remote over a dash switch.
- Seal and check. Start the engine and listen for leaks at idle and with the valve closed. Then cycle the valve open and closed a few times to confirm full travel and no contact.
- Road-test gently, then re-check clamp bolts and welds after the first heat cycle.
H3 Choosing the right variant
| Variant | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Standard electric cutout | Most cars and trucks with room around the pipe | Needs clearance for the motor |
| Low-profile electric cutout | Tight chassis, lowered cars, limited ground clearance | Less clearance elsewhere, still needs wiring access |
| DIY fabricator cutout | Custom builds, odd pipe sizes, welding your own Y | You supply the fabrication skill |
| Aggressor electric cutout pipe | Buyers who want the branch pipe included | Larger, more involved install |
H3 A realistic scenario
Say you have a 3-inch cat-back on a V8 and want a loud option without replacing the whole system. You measure 3 inches at a straight section behind the converter, order a matching universal cutout, weld the Y in, mount the motor facing the frame rail, and run a fused switch into the cabin. Closed, the truck sounds stock; open, it dumps at the Y. The failure points are almost always the same: a leaking weld, a motor too close to heat, or wiring chafing on a bracket.
H3 A decision criterion
If you can't weld and don't want to pay a shop, buy a clamp-on kit and accept the small risk of leaks. If you want it quiet when closed and loud when open with no compromise, weld it and support the valve body independently.
For parts and vehicle fitment, start at Quick Time Performance and use its Shop By Vehicle lookup or the universal cutout categories; if your vehicle isn't listed, its own guidance is to contact them with your pipe size.
What are the benefits of Made in the USA exhaust components from Quick Time Performance?
Buying Quick Time Performance exhaust parts that are made in the USA mainly gets you domestic manufacturing accountability, a vehicle-specific catalog backed by universal cutout sizing, and a product family designed around electric cutouts rather than generic pipe work.
What "Made in the USA" does and doesn't mean here
The page positions Quick Time Performance as the "Home of the Quick Time Electric Exhaust Cutout" and states its exhaust cutouts, systems, mufflers and components are made in the USA. In practical terms, that claim tells you where the parts are produced; it does not, by itself, tell you the warranty length, materials grade or noise level. Treat those as separate questions to confirm before ordering.
Concrete benefits for a buyer
- Fit guidance for cutouts. The page notes that electric cutouts are universal by design and are sorted by your existing exhaust pipe size. That is useful if your vehicle isn't in the "Shop By Vehicle" list — you measure your pipe rather than guess a model.
- A focused product line. Categories include Electric Exhaust Cutouts, Low Profile Electric Cutouts, DIY Fabricator Electric Cutouts, Wireless Remote Controllers and Clips, Aggressor Electric Cutout Pipes, Screamer, TwinTronic, Exhaust Eliminator, Exhaust Systems and AR3 Mufflers. That range covers both bolt-on systems and build-it-yourself fabrication.
- Vehicle-specific options where they exist. The hot products shown are a 2016–2024 Chevrolet Camaro SS QTP Screamer Axle Back Quad Tip with black tips, listed at $1,788.04 with a sale price of $1,686.83, and a 2018–2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk QTP Screamer Cat Back with black tips, listed at $3,403.53 with a sale price of $3,210.88. These are the kind of listings where domestic production pairs with a known platform fit.
Where the trade-off shows up
Domestic manufacturing generally means shorter supply lines and easier contact with the maker, but it does not automatically mean cheaper or quieter. If your goal is a mild daily-driver tone, a full Screamer system may be more than you need; a cutout sized to your existing pipe is the lower-commitment route. If you are welding your own setup, the DIY Fabricator cutouts are the relevant category.
How to decide
Start with your exhaust pipe diameter and whether you want a complete system or an add-on cutout. Then check the "Shop By Vehicle" list; if your car isn't there, use the universal cutout sizing. For brand background, the manufacturer's own site is the primary reference: Quick Time Performance.
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