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Buy a pattern (chart) when you already own or want to choose your own fabric and thread; buy a kit when you want the designer's fabric, floss, and instructions bundled together. Fabric choice comes down to Aida (easy counting, crisp squares) versus linen (softer drape, finer look, requires stitching over 2 threads). Floss is mostly 6-strand cotton for standard projects, with silk and specialty threads for sheen, texture, or heirloom pieces. The three must agree on count and color or the finished piece won't match the chart.

Pattern vs. kit: what you're actually buying

A chart tells you the design size in stitches (e.g., 90 × 120). That number, not the paper size, determines how big the finished piece is.

Fabric: Aida vs. linen, and why count matters

Count = stitches per inch. It controls finished size:

Finished size (inches) = stitch count ÷ fabric count

A 140-stitch-wide design on 14-count fabric = 10 inches wide. The same design on 18-count = about 7.8 inches.

Add a margin of at least 2–3 inches per side for framing or finishing. A 10-inch design on 14-count wants roughly a 14 × 18-inch cut, more if you plan a wide mat.

Floss and thread: matching type to project

• 6-strand cotton (stranded) — the default. You separate strands; most charts specify how many (often 2 on 14–16 count, 1–2 on higher counts).
• Silk and over-dyed/specialty threads — for sheen, variegation, or historical reproductions. They behave differently (less forgiving, sometimes not colorfast), so test on a scrap first.
• Specialty metallic/glissen — for accents and sparkle; usually harder to stitch and best kept to small areas.

Match color number and brand to the chart's key. Substituting brands is fine visually but changes the exact result, so note your swaps.

How much floss will you need?

There's no universal formula, but a workable estimate:

1. Count the stitches in one color from the chart.
2. Assume roughly 1 skein per 1,000–1,800 stitches for 2-strand stitching on 14-count (varies with stitch length and thread waste).
3. Round up, and buy an extra skein for any color used heavily or for blending.

Kits already do this math for you — one reason beginners start there.

Compatibility checklist before you buy

• Count matches the chart's recommendation (or you've recalculated size).
• Fabric color gives enough contrast for the floss palette.
• Floss type and strand count suit the fabric count.
• Fabric cut includes margin for finishing.
• Kit vs. pattern — confirm a kit actually includes fabric and floss, since some "kits" are chart-only.

Where to start

If you're new: pick a kit with 14-count Aida and cotton floss. If you're comfortable: buy a chart, choose Aida for speed or linen for finish, and match 6-strand cotton to the key. Check count, color, and quantity against the chart before checkout — that single step prevents most mismatched-supply problems.