imagecompressr.com

If you're new to Ahrefs and want to run your first SEO audit, the fastest path is: open Site Explorer, enter your target URL, review the Overview for a health snapshot, then dig into Organic Keywords, Top Pages, and Site Audit to find specific problems. From there, build a short prioritized to-do list instead of trying to fix everything at once.

This tutorial walks through that workflow using a realistic starting scenario, explains what the numbers mean, and shows how to turn findings into actions.

Before You Start: Pick a Narrow Scope

A common beginner mistake is auditing an entire large website on day one. The reports become overwhelming, and you can't tell which issues matter.

Instead, choose one of these starting points:

• A single important page (your homepage or a key product/service page)
• A small site (under ~50 pages, e.g., a personal blog or small business site)
• One section of a bigger site (e.g., /blog/)

For this tutorial, assume you're auditing a small business site with about 30 pages. The same steps scale up later.

You'll need an Ahrefs account to follow along. Ahrefs offers paid plans, and pricing and feature limits change over time, so check the current Pricing page for what's included in each tier before committing.

Step 1: Enter Your Target in Site Explorer

Site Explorer is Ahrefs' core tool for analyzing any website or URL.

1. Open Site Explorer from the top navigation.
2. In the search box, paste your domain (e.g., example.com).
3. Choose the Exact URL or Domain mode depending on scope. For a full-site view, use Domain or Prefix; for a single page, use Exact URL.
4. Press Enter.

You'll land on the Overview report. Don't try to absorb everything — focus on four numbers first.

Reading the Overview Snapshot

Important caveat: Ahrefs' traffic and keyword numbers are estimates based on its own data. They won't match Google Search Console or your analytics exactly. Treat them as directional, not absolute.

Step 2: See What You Already Rank For

Go to Organic Keywords in the left sidebar. This shows queries where your site appears in search results.

Sort by Traffic (descending) to see which pages bring the most estimated visitors. Then look for:

• Keywords ranking in positions 4–15 — these are often the easiest wins. A small content or on-page improvement can push them onto page one.
• Keywords with high volume but low position — potential opportunities if the topic is relevant.
• Irrelevant keywords — if you rank for something off-topic, it may signal thin or mismatched content.

Write down 5–10 of the position 4–15 keywords. These become your first optimization targets.

Step 3: Find Your Best and Weakest Pages

Open Top Pages. This ranks your URLs by estimated organic traffic.

Look for two things:

1. Your top performers — understand what topics and formats work. Can you create more content like this?
2. Pages with traffic but poor rankings — these may need on-page fixes (title, headings, internal links).

If a page gets zero traffic and targets a topic you care about, it's a candidate for a rewrite or consolidation.

Step 4: Run a Technical Site Audit

Now move to Site Audit. This crawls your site and flags technical and on-page issues.

1. Click Site Audit → New project.
2. Enter your domain and set crawl settings (default is usually fine for a small site).
3. Start the crawl and wait for it to finish.

Once complete, you'll see a Health Score and a list of issues grouped by category.

Which Issues to Fix First

Not all issues are equal. Prioritize in this order:

Ignore low-impact warnings (like minor meta description length) until the big items are handled.

Step 5: Turn Findings Into a To-Do List

You now have raw data. Convert it into a short, actionable list. Example:

1. Fix 3 broken links found in Site Audit.
2. Rewrite title tags on 5 pages with duplicate titles.
3. Improve 4 pages ranking in positions 6–12 by adding missing subtopics and internal links.
4. Remove or update 2 thin pages with no traffic.

Keep the list to 5–10 items max for your first audit. Finishing a short list beats starting a long one.

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Chasing every red flag. Site Audit flags many minor issues. Fix what affects rankings and users first.
• Trusting estimates as exact numbers. Ahrefs data is modeled, not measured from your analytics.
• Auditing a huge site too early. Start small to learn the interface.
• Ignoring search intent. A page can be technically perfect but still fail if it doesn't match what searchers want.
• Forgetting to re-crawl. After fixes, run Site Audit again to confirm improvements.

Where to Go Next

Once your first audit is done:

• Compare with competitors using Site Explorer's Competing Domains and Content Gap reports.
• Track keyword rankings over time with Rank Tracker.
• Explore backlink opportunities in the Backlinks and Link Intersect reports.
• Set up recurring Site Audit crawls so new issues surface automatically.

Your first audit isn't about perfection — it's about building a repeatable habit: enter a target, read the key reports, pick the highest-impact fixes, and act. Do that once a month and your site's health compounds.

Bulk Image Compressor (imagecompressr.com) compresses batches of JPG, JPEG, PNG, and WebP files directly in your browser — no upload, no signup, and no stated limit on how many images you can drop in at once. You drag your files into the dropbox, optionally set a target size or maximum dimensions, and click Start Compressing. The catch: the first 100 images are free, and unlimited compression requires a one-time $10 purchase.

Before you start

• File types supported: JPG, JPEG, PNG, WebP.
• Where your files go: the page states images "stay on your machine" and are not uploaded to a server, so compression runs locally in the browser.
• Free limit: your first 100 images are free; beyond that the site asks for a one-time payment (no subscription).
• No account needed to begin — signup is not required to compress.

Step-by-step: batch compress images

1. Add your images. Drag and drop as many files as you want into the dropbox, or click Select files to browse. The counter shows how many images are selected (e.g., "Selected 0 images").
2. Choose your settings.
   • Leave the defaults to compress immediately, or
   • Open Advance Settings to control output.
3. Set quality (optional). Use the Quality slider (shown as a percentage). The algorithm is not lossless, but the site notes that selecting 95%+ quality gives near-lossless results.
4. Set a target size (optional). Enter a Max Size in KBs to bring large files down from MBs to KBs.
5. Set maximum dimensions (optional). Enter a max target width and height in pixels — for example, 512 — to make every image fit within that range (e.g., all images smaller than 512×512).
6. Click Start Compressing. The tool processes the whole batch and returns your compressed images to download.

Matching the setting to your goal

Common sticking points

• "Lossless" isn't truly lossless. The site is explicit that the algorithm is not lossless; use 95%+ quality if you need results that look unchanged.
• Target size vs. dimensions are different controls. Max Size (KBs) limits file weight; max width/height limits pixel dimensions. Set both if you need files that are small and a specific shape.
• The 100-image free limit. If you're compressing a large library, expect to hit the paywall; the $10 one-time purchase unlocks unlimited compression.
• Photos vs. graphics. The site positions itself as a photo compressor and claims drastic size reductions on photos, so it's aimed at image-heavy batches rather than precision editing.

When this tool fits

Use Bulk Image Compressor if you need to shrink many JPG/PNG/WebP files at once without uploading them anywhere, and you want control over either output file size or pixel dimensions. If you only have a handful of images, the free 100-image allowance covers you. If you're processing thousands regularly, the one-time $10 unlock removes the cap.

Image editing is the process of changing an existing image—cropping, resizing, retouching, correcting color, removing a background, or converting its format—rather than creating a new design from scratch. It's the right approach when you already have a photo or graphic and need it to meet a specific requirement: a marketplace listing, a website, a print piece, or a social post. If you're building an original layout with type and vector shapes, that's graphic design; if you're repairing an old or damaged photo, that's restoration. Image editing sits in between and covers most day-to-day tasks.

What counts as image editing

The label covers a defined set of operations. Knowing which one you need determines which tool will work.

• Crop — remove unwanted edges or change the aspect ratio.
• Resize — change pixel dimensions or file size for a platform's limits.
• Retouch — remove blemishes, dust, or small unwanted objects.
• Color correction — fix white balance, exposure, contrast, or saturation.
• Background removal — isolate the subject, usually for product or profile images.
• Format conversion — move between JPEG, PNG, WebP, TIFF, and similar.

For example, an Amazon seller preparing a listing image may need background removal, a square crop, and a resize to the marketplace's minimum pixel requirement—three separate operations in one workflow.

Comparing editor types

The three main categories differ in where they run, what they cost in effort, and what they're good at. Use the same dimensions to compare any two tools.

Some platforms bundle image editing into a wider toolset. IntelliFox, for instance, describes itself as a unified set of Amazon seller tools covering listing optimisation, PPC automation, sales and profit tracking, image editing, review requests, and fee change alerts—so image editing there is one function among several rather than a standalone editor. That matters if your editing needs are tied to marketplace listings rather than general photo work.

How to choose a tool

Match the tool to four things before you commit time to learning it:

1. Platform — Do you work on desktop, in a browser, or on a phone? Pick the one you'll actually use daily.
2. Budget — Check the vendor's pricing page rather than assuming a free tier. IntelliFox lists a pricing page at intellifox.com/pricing/, but the source material doesn't state what's free or paid, so verify before relying on it.
3. Skill level — If you need layers and masks, a full editor is worth the learning curve. If you need a crop and a resize, a simpler tool is faster.
4. Output needs — Resolution, file format, and transparency requirements rule out some tools immediately.

A basic editing workflow

The same sequence works in almost any editor:

1. Import the original and keep a copy untouched.
2. Crop to the target aspect ratio first, so later adjustments apply to the final framing.
3. Correct color and exposure before retouching, since tonal changes can reveal or hide flaws.
4. Retouch blemishes and unwanted objects.
5. Remove or replace the background if the output needs transparency or a clean backdrop.
6. Resize to the final pixel dimensions.
7. Export in the required format and check the file size against the platform's limit.

Doing resize and export last avoids re-editing a file that's already been compressed.

Common problems and fixes

• Quality loss after resizing — You enlarged beyond the original resolution. Start from the largest source file you have, and downsize rather than upsize where possible.
• Wrong file format — Transparency needs PNG or WebP; JPEG doesn't support it. Convert after editing, not before.
• Unsupported file — Some editors won't open RAW, TIFF, or HEIC. Convert to a supported format first, or choose a tool that lists your camera's format.
• Colors look different after export — Check the color profile and whether the platform re-compresses uploads.

If your editing is part of a larger listing or storefront workflow, confirm the tool handles the export formats and dimensions that platform requires before you build a routine around it.

You can cut most images to a fraction of their original file size without any visible quality loss by doing three things in the right order: resize the image to the dimensions it will actually display at, pick the right format for the content, then apply compression at a quality level that survives a side-by-side check. The single biggest mistake is skipping step one — an oversized image compressed at maximum quality is still far heavier than a correctly sized one.

Why file size and quality are a trade-off, not a fixed setting

Every compressed image is a negotiation between three variables: how many pixels you keep, how precisely each pixel is described, and how much the format is allowed to guess.

• Dimensions decide how many pixels exist at all. Halving width and height removes 75% of the pixel data before any compression happens.
• Quality level decides how aggressively the encoder discards detail it thinks you won't notice.
• Format decides the kind of discarding allowed — some formats throw away color precision, others only remove redundancy.

Because these interact, "quality 80" means something different on a 4000px photo than on a 600px thumbnail. Tune dimensions first, then quality.

Pick the format before you touch the quality slider

Practical rule: photos → JPEG or lossy WEBP; flat graphics and transparency → PNG or lossless WEBP; anything vector → SVG.

The four levers, in the order you should pull them

1. Resize to display size (biggest win, zero quality cost)

If your layout renders an image at 800px wide, serving a 2400px original wastes roughly 89% of the pixels. Resize to the largest size it will ever be displayed at, and add a 2× version only if you need retina sharpness.

2. Choose the format

Match the format to the content type using the table above. Converting a photographic PNG to JPEG or WEBP alone can shrink it by 80% or more.

3. Set the quality level

For JPEG and lossy WEBP, most photographs hold up well between quality 70 and 85. Below ~60, banding appears in skies and blur around text. Above ~90, file size climbs steeply for gains nobody can see.

4. Strip metadata

EXIF data, camera info, and embedded thumbnails can add tens of kilobytes. Remove them unless you specifically need copyright or orientation data — and note that stripping orientation can rotate an image, so verify after export.

When lossy compression is fine, and when it isn't

Lossy is acceptable when:

• The image is a photograph or has natural texture.
• It's decorative or below the fold.
• Slight softening won't be noticed at final display size.

Use lossless or vector instead when:

• The image contains text, UI elements, or thin lines (lossy creates ringing artifacts).
• It's a logo, icon, or diagram — SVG or PNG keeps edges clean.
• It will be edited again later; repeated lossy saves compound degradation.
• It's a screenshot of code or a chart where color accuracy matters.

Compressing vs. resizing: don't confuse them

Compressing reduces the bytes needed to describe the same pixels. Resizing reduces the number of pixels. They're independent, and resizing usually delivers the larger saving. A 3000×2000 photo at quality 95 might be 2 MB; the same photo resized to 1200×800 at quality 80 might be 180 KB. Doing only the quality reduction gets you maybe 40% off; doing both gets you over 90%.

A repeatable workflow

1. Determine the maximum display width in your layout (inspect the element or check your CSS).
2. Export at that width (plus a 2× variant if needed).
3. Convert to the right format — WEBP as a modern default, JPEG as a fallback, PNG/SVG for graphics.
4. Apply quality 75–85 for lossy formats and compare against the original.
5. Strip metadata and re-check orientation.
6. Verify before publishing (see below).
7. Serve the right file with srcset so small screens don't download the large variant.

How to verify quality before you publish

• View at 100% at final display size, not zoomed in — artifacts you can't see at real size don't matter.
• Toggle between original and compressed in a viewer or an online compressor's before/after preview.
• Check the worst-case areas: skies, smooth gradients, sharp edges, and any text.
• Compare file sizes and ask whether the extra kilobytes buy visible improvement. If not, go smaller.
• Test on a mid-range phone, where banding and blur are often more obvious than on a desktop monitor.

Common mistakes

• Compressing a full-resolution image and calling it optimized.
• Using PNG for photographs.
• Setting quality to 100 "to be safe" — it inflates size with no visible benefit.
• Re-saving a JPEG repeatedly, stacking artifacts each time.
• Forgetting that GIF animations are usually better as WEBP or video.
• Ignoring metadata, which can silently add weight.

Quick reference

The order matters more than any single setting: resize, then choose format, then tune quality, then strip metadata, then verify at real display size. Follow that sequence and you'll routinely land at 10–20% of the original file size with no quality your visitors can detect.

Bulk Image Compressor (imagecompressr.com) is a reasonable fit if you need to shrink large numbers of JPG, JPEG, PNG, or WebP files at once and want your images to stay on your own machine. It is built specifically for batch work — the site says you can drop "a massive number of images" and compress them in one pass, and it reports over 2 million images compressed per month. The trade-offs are that compression is not truly lossless, and the free tier is limited to your first 100 images, after which a one-time $10 payment is required.

What it does well for photos and bulk jobs

• Batch-first design. You drag and drop many images at once, click Start Compressing, and get all of them back compressed. There is no stated cap on how many you can drop in.
• Format coverage. It handles JPG, JPEG, PNG, and WebP — the common formats for photos and web images.
• Meaningful size reduction. The site states sizes often drop from MBs to KBs, which is the main reason to use a photo compressor.
• Privacy by architecture. Because there is no uploading, your photos stay on your machine. The site states your photos remain your property and never leave your device.

Controls that matter for photo quality

The tool exposes settings that let you steer the quality-versus-size trade-off:

The site is explicit that the algorithm is not lossless. If you need genuinely lossless compression, this is not the right tool — but selecting 95%+ quality gets you close enough that most viewers won't notice.

Where it falls short

• Not lossless. If your workflow requires bit-perfect preservation, look elsewhere.
• Free tier is capped. Your first 100 images are free; unlimited compression requires a one-time $10 purchase. The site describes this as no subscription, yours forever. There is no evidence of a recurring fee.
• No stated format beyond the four listed. If you work with HEIC, AVIF, or TIFF, this tool doesn't claim to support them.

Who should use it

Use Bulk Image Compressor if you regularly process batches of JPG, PNG, or WebP photos and want them compressed locally without uploading to a server. It suits photographers trimming a portfolio, site owners optimizing image-heavy pages, or anyone hitting upload size limits.

Skip it if you need lossless compression, work primarily in formats outside JPG/PNG/WebP, or want to avoid any payment — the 100-image free limit will stop you quickly on real batch work.