Website review
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What is Ukuleles by Kawika?
Ukuleles by Kawika is a personal, workshop-style site about building and understanding ukuleles, run by an instrument maker named Kawika. Its stated aim is "making tomorrow's vintage instruments...today," and the tone is that of a craftsman sharing notes rather than a storefront: the site's tagline is "Everyone knows something; no one knows everything. Therefore everyone has something to teach and something to learn."
What you'll actually find there
The ukulele content is practical and fairly deep for a hobbyist:
- Build and repair technique — shop tips, routing jigs for soundholes and trim, gluing tops, backs and sides, and installing a "bridge doctor."
- Bridge and setup math — aligning and gluing bridges, bridge and bridge-plate sizing, and measuring string compensation across different scale lengths.
- Strings and sound — attaching strings to tuning pegs and bridge, tunings for the four-string tenor, and notes on string-diameter variability and frequency response.
- Reference material — a Hawaiian ukulele characteristics database, photos of old Hawaiian ukuleles, vintage instruction manuals, and pages on collecting ukuleles and memorabilia.
- Materials — a section on koa wood, the traditional Hawaiian tonewood.
A large share of the site is devoted to lauhala weaving — preparing and cutting leaves, weave patterns, and hat making — which reflects the maker's broader interest in Hawaiian craft rather than the ukulele itself.
Who it suits
Think of a reader like a home builder working on a tenor who wants to understand why a saddle sits where it does before cutting the bridge slot, or someone trying to date an inherited instrument using the characteristics database and photo archive. The compensation and bridge-gluing material is the kind of detail usually passed along in a workshop, not a product page.
The trade-off is structure. This is a blog-style collection of pages and posts, so information is scattered and you'll need to browse or use the site search rather than follow a guided course. There are no obvious buying guides or shop listings in what's presented, and it isn't a substitute for a luthier's hands-on instruction.
Next step: if you're building, start with the bridge and compensation pages before touching wood, since scale length and string choice drive those measurements. For broader instrument background and history, compare with Ukulele Underground or the museum-style collections at The Ukulele Hall of Fame Museum.
How do I choose between the different tunings for a 4-string tenor ukulele?
For a 4-string tenor, the practical choice is usually between standard re-entrant tuning (GCEA, with the fourth string pitched higher than the third) and low-G (linear) tuning, where the fourth string is the lowest note. The tenor's larger body and longer scale handle low-G better than a soprano, so the decision mostly comes down to the sound and role you want.
How the two compare
| Re-entrant (high-G) GCEA | Low-G (linear) GCEA | |
|---|---|---|
| Fourth string | Pitched above the third string | Lowest of the four strings |
| Characteristic sound | Bright, chiming, traditional ukulele | Fuller, guitar-like, more bass |
| Chords and melody | Close voicings; melody notes sit high and clear | Wider spread; bass notes support the chord |
| Good for | Strumming, Hawaiian styles, solo melody playing | Accompaniment, singer-songwriters, ensemble blend |
| Trade-off | Less low-end weight | Some traditional strums lose the re-entrant sparkle |
Other tunings exist (such as D tuning or slack-key variants), but they are more specialized; start with one of the two above unless you have a specific repertoire reason.
A useful next step
Decide by your main use: if you mostly play melody or traditional strumming and want the classic ukulele voice, choose re-entrant. If you accompany singing or play with guitars and want bass support, choose low-G. Whichever you pick, check that the string set suits a tenor scale and that the nut slot and bridge saddle accommodate the thicker low-G string; a swap may need a small setup adjustment.
For background on tenor-specific tuning and string attachment, Ukuleles by Kawika includes pages on tunings for the 4-string tenor and on attaching strings to tuning pegs and bridge.
What are the characteristics that distinguish old Hawaiian ukuleles in the vintage database?
The vintage database distinguishes old Hawaiian ukuleles mainly by construction details and maker-level features rather than by sound descriptions alone. Based on the site's own list of Hawaiian ukulele characteristics, the database is organized around attributes such as body shape and size, wood (including koa), bridge and bridge-plate design, soundhole and trim treatment, headstock and tuning-pegs, and the way strings attach at the bridge—details that help separate one maker or era from another.
For a collector or buyer, that means the database is most useful as a comparison tool: photograph or record the same set of features on a candidate instrument, then check them against entries for known old Hawaiian makers. Differences in bridge style, trim routing and peg type often matter more than a single label, so use the database to narrow a maker or period before seeking hands-on confirmation. The related pages on koa wood and vintage instruction manuals on Ukuleles by Kawika give useful context for interpreting those features.
How can I learn to weave lauhala using the step-by-step projects on this site?
Start with the simplest project and work upward: the site lays out lauhala weaving as a numbered sequence of small projects, beginning with a check-weave (maka moena) coaster and a matching trivet before moving to twill and diagonal weaves, then baskets, hats and more complex pieces. Read the preparation pages first—glycerin softening, cutting koana strips, weaving posture and the practice tool—because the projects assume you have usable strips and a comfortable working position.
A practical path through the projects
- Prepare materials. Work through the lauhala preparation and koana-cutting pages, and use the practice tool to build even tension before starting a real piece.
- Learn the base weave. The first coaster and trivet use check weave; the third project introduces twill (maka oeno), and the fourth adds diagonal weave.
- Practise adding strips. The "adding in" pages cover one-piece, two-piece, folded and bent koana, plus the lock fold—skills every later project depends on.
- Change patterns deliberately. The pages on converting horizontal twill to vertical twill and check to vertical twill help you see how a pattern is structured rather than memorised.
- Scale up. Move to the nihoniho (toothed) coaster, the small basket, the glass sleeve and then the hat projects, which add piko transitions, brims and sweatbands.
How to use the site well
Treat each project as a lesson with one new skill, and repeat it until the edges are straight and the tension is even before advancing. The Hawaiian vocabulary pages are worth reading alongside the projects, since the instructions use terms like koana and maka moena throughout. For broader context on Hawaiian craft and instrument traditions, Bishop Museum is a useful reference.
If you only have an evening, start with the glycerin-softening page and the first coaster; that single pair of pages tells you whether your strips and setup are ready for the rest of the sequence.
What does koa wood contribute to an ukulele's sound and construction?
Koa contributes both the visual identity and a distinctive tonal character to a ukulele, and it is closely tied to Hawaiian instrument-making. On Ukuleles by Kawika, the site treats koa as a topic worth its own section alongside pages on building, bridges and strings, which signals that wood choice is part of the construction discussion rather than decoration alone.
What koa typically brings
- Tone: Koa is generally described as having a warm, balanced voice with a pronounced midrange and a bright, slightly crisp top end. Many players hear a sweetness in the upper register and a woody warmth underneath.
- Response: It is often characterized as responsive to playing dynamics—gentle fingerstyle and harder strumming both register clearly—though the exact result depends heavily on how the top is thicknessed and braced.
- Appearance: Koa's figure—curly, striped or plain—varies widely, and builders often select and bookmatch pieces so the grain pattern reads symmetrically across the top.
- Construction role: Koa is used for tops, backs and sides. A koa top shapes the sound most directly; koa back and sides contribute more to projection and character. Because koa varies from piece to piece, builders tend to judge each set individually rather than treating "koa" as one uniform material.
Practical trade-offs
Koa is not the cheapest or most predictable tonewood, and its variability means two koa ukuleles of the same model can sound noticeably different. A koa instrument rewards a player who wants a traditional Hawaiian voice and is willing to accept that individuality; someone seeking a highly consistent, bright and projecting sound might compare it with spruce or mahogany tops.
A useful next step is to read the koa section on Ukuleles by Kawika alongside its pages on bridge placement and string compensation, since those construction details often matter as much as the wood itself. If you are choosing an instrument, play or listen to several koa examples rather than deciding from the wood name alone—ask what the top is, how it is braced, and how the specific set looks and sounds.
How do I attach strings to tuning pegs and the bridge on a ukulele?
The site’s ukulele section includes a page specifically titled “Attaching Strings to Tuning Pegs and Bridge,” so that is the most direct place to start for this task. The same section also covers related setup details—tunings for a 4-string tenor, string diameter and frequency response, and measuring string compensation—which matter once the strings are on and you want the instrument to play in tune. See Ukuleles by Kawika.
The basic sequence
- Thread each string through its bridge slot or tie it at the bridge, following the method your bridge type uses.
- Lead the string up to its tuning peg, pass it through the peg hole, and leave enough slack to wind two or three turns around the post.
- Wind the string so it coils neatly downward on the post, keeping tension as you turn the peg.
- Bring each string up to pitch gradually, retuning several times as the strings settle.
Practical points
- Match string to position carefully; the site’s string-diameter information is useful for understanding why a swapped string sounds or feels wrong.
- On a tenor in particular, the tuning you choose affects string choice and tension, so confirm tuning before winding to full pitch.
- New strings stretch; expect repeated tuning over the first days.
For a reader restringing a first ukulele, the site’s step-by-step page plus its tunings page is the logical next stop; if you later notice intonation problems high up the neck, its compensation notes explain what to check.
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