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What is The Australian Coin Collecting Blog?
The Australian Coin Collecting Blog is a long-running hobby site for Australian coin collectors, published at The Australian Coin Collecting Blog. Its main job is reference material: issue-by-issue guides to circulating Australian coins, mintage tables by year, and articles on coin errors and mis-strikes.
What you'll find there
- Year-by-year mintage pages for Australian circulating coins, grouped in ranges (for example 1984–1990, 1991–1995, 1996–1998, and onward through the 2010s), plus dedicated pages for the one dollar and two dollar coins and the 50 cent coin.
- Error and mis-strike articles, such as a 1976 proof one cent struck on a silver planchet intended for another country's coinage — written up with photos, grading notes and reasoning about how the mistake happened.
- Other collecting areas, including Australian PNCs (postal numismatic covers) and identity discs used as forget-me-not tokens.
- A newsletter you can subscribe to for updates, and contact/about pages.
Who it suits
- New collectors who need to know what was minted in a given year and how many were made, without buying a printed catalogue.
- Error and variety hunters who want detailed case studies rather than a simple price list.
- Returning collectors checking whether a coin in a drawer is an ordinary issue or something unusual.
Trade-offs to expect
The site is strongest on Australian decimal circulating coins and errors; if you collect pre-decimal Australian coinage, world coins, or banknotes, it won't be your main reference. Mintage figures tell you how common a date is, not what a specific coin is worth in a given grade — condition, variety and demand all matter, so treat the pages as identification and context rather than valuation.
A practical next step
If you have an Australian coin you can't place, start with the mintage page for its year to confirm the design and issue, then check the error and mis-strike articles if the coin looks odd — wrong planchet, off-centre strike, or an unexpected metal. For a second opinion on anything valuable, compare against a specialist dealer or a recognised grading service before assuming it's a rarity.
How do I identify a wrong planchet error on an Australian coin?
Start by comparing the coin's metal, weight and edge against the normal specification for its date and denomination. A wrong planchet error means the coin was struck on a blank intended for a different coin, medal or token, so the mismatch usually shows up as the wrong colour or alloy, an odd weight, or a denomination struck on a flan of the wrong size.
A practical check, in order:
- Metal and colour. A copper coin struck on a silver-coloured blank, or vice versa, is the most obvious signal. The Australian Coin Collecting Blog describes a proof 1976 one cent struck on a silver planchet — a striking example, since Australia's first sterling silver decimal coins did not appear until 1982.
- Weight and diameter. Weigh the coin and compare it with the published figure for that date and denomination. A wrong planchet often sits outside the normal tolerance because the blank belonged to another issue.
- Edge and rim. Note whether the edge finish and rim thickness match what that denomination should have. An un-rimmed blank from another coin can leave an unusual rim.
- Strike quality. A proof coin on the wrong blank is especially distinctive because the mirror fields and cameo contrast sit over an unexpected metal.
The harder question is whether it is a genuine error or something else. The blog raises the possibility that some pieces are "Mint Sport" — coins deliberately struck in the wrong metal by mint staff — and asks whether that changes how they should be classified. For a collector, that distinction matters: an accidental wrong planchet error and a deliberately produced oddity can be valued and documented very differently, even when both look unusual.
Next step: photograph the coin against a plain background, record its weight to two decimal places, and compare it with the standard specification for that date and denomination. Then look for the Royal Australian Mint's annual reports for the year in question, which list the overseas coins, tokens and medals the Mint produced — useful context for judging whether a foreign blank could plausibly have been in the building. For background on Australian decimal issues and mintages, the Australian Coin Collecting Blog gathers date-by-date information in one place. For grading terminology and population data, PCGS explains its grading scale and certification lookups.
What are the mintage figures for Australian decimal coins?
Mintage figures are the number of coins struck for each date and denomination, and for Australian decimal coins they vary enormously by year, mint and issue type. The Australian Coin Collecting Blog organises these figures by denomination and year, with the most detailed coverage given to the one and two dollar coins.
The Australian Coin Collecting Blog
H3 Where the figures live on the site
- The one dollar section is broken into yearly issue and mintage pages from 1984 through 2017.
- The two dollar section has the same year-by-year structure.
- There are dedicated pages for the Australian 50 cent coin and for coin errors and mis-strikes.
H3 What the numbers mean in practice
- Circulating mintage is the number released for everyday use; it is usually the largest figure and drives common-date value.
- Uncirculated and proof mintages are much smaller and are listed separately because they serve collectors rather than commerce.
- NCLT (non-circulating legal tender) issues, such as coloured or commemorative coins, are their own category and should not be read as circulation totals.
- Mint sport, wrong planchet and other error coins fall outside normal mintage tables entirely, as the blog's article on a 1976 proof one cent struck on a silver planchet illustrates.
H3 A practical use If you inherit a tin of decimal coins, start with the year pages for the denominations you have. A 1966 round 50 cent, for example, sits in a different supply context from later 50 cent years, so check the date before assuming a coin is scarce. For a collector deciding what to buy, compare the circulating mintage against the uncirculated and proof figures; a low circulation year with a large proof run behaves very differently from a genuinely small total issue.
H3 Decision criterion Ask whether you are checking a circulation date, a collector issue or an error. The first two are answered by the yearly mintage pages; the third needs the error and mis-strike articles, where mintage numbers do not apply.
How can I tell if a rare Australian coin is genuine or a counterfeit?
Genuine vs. counterfeit Australian coins are usually separated by three things: strike quality, metal composition, and documented provenance. Most fakes fail on at least one of these, and the failures are often visible with a loupe and a scale rather than a laboratory.
The strongest single check is weight and diameter against the official specification for that year and type. Counterfeits are frequently cast rather than struck, so they tend to be slightly light, slightly thick, or slightly undersized. A cast copy also usually shows a soft, soapy surface where fine detail should be sharp, and may carry tiny pits, seams or file marks on the rim.
Practical checks in order
- Magnet and sound. Most Australian decimal coins are not magnetic; a fake in plated steel will jump at a magnet. A genuine struck coin also "rings" when balanced on a fingertip and tapped, while many cast fakes thud.
- Edge and rim. Look for a continuous reeded or plain edge with no seam, no double line and no tooling marks. A seam around the edge is close to conclusive evidence of a cast forgery.
- Surface under magnification. Genuine coins show flow lines radiating from the strike and crisp, raised detail. Cast copies show a granular or orange-peel texture and rounded, soft lettering.
- Colour and wear pattern. Plated forgeries wear through on the high points, revealing a different metal underneath. Genuine toning and wear develop gradually and consistently.
- Die markers. For key dates, specialists compare known die cracks, die polish lines and mint mark positions. A coin that matches the design but not the known die markers deserves suspicion.
Where errors complicate things
Error coins are a special trap because they look wrong by definition. The Australian Coin Collecting Blog discusses a 1976 proof one cent struck on a silver planchet, noting it is one of only two or three known and that it has been graded by PCGS. That is the useful pattern for a collector: unusual pieces are authenticated by strike characteristics plus independent grading, not by appearance alone. If a coin is struck on the wrong planchet, the design should still be fully and sharply struck — a mushy, incomplete impression points to a cast fake instead.
Provenance beats any single test
For expensive coins, paperwork matters as much as the coin. Auction records, dealer invoices, and population reports from a major grading service let you trace a coin's history. A coin with no history and a price far below market is a warning sign, not a bargain. If you are buying at the top end, a professional opinion from a recognised grading service is usually worth the fee, and it also makes resale easier. The blog's own newsletter signup is at The Australian Coin Collecting Blog if you want ongoing articles on errors and varieties.
A quick decision guide
| Situation | Best next step |
|---|---|
| Inexpensive coin, mild suspicion | Weigh, measure, magnet test, inspect edge |
| Key date or high value | Send for professional grading before buying or selling |
| Suspected error coin | Compare against documented examples and die markers |
| Inherited collection | Sort by date, then verify the few high-value pieces individually |
If you have one coin in hand, start by weighing it to 0.01 g and comparing that figure with the published specification for its year — that single measurement eliminates a large share of fakes before you spend money on anything else.
What are the most valuable Australian coin errors and mis-strikes?
Valuable Australian error coins usually fall into a few well-known families, and the standout examples are often wrong-planchet strikes, off-centre strikes, mules, and coins struck on foreign or outdated blanks. The Australian Coin Collecting Blog documents one of the most dramatic: a 1976 proof one cent struck on a silver planchet intended for Fiji, described as one of only two or three known of its type, graded PR61CAM, and notable because Australia did not strike sterling silver decimal coins until 1982. That combination of rarity, cross-country minting history and proof status is what drives value.
Error types collectors chase
| Error type | What it is | Why it can be valuable |
|---|---|---|
| Wrong planchet | A coin struck on a blank meant for another coin, medal or token | Very few escape the mint; each is often unique or near-unique |
| Mule | Obverse and reverse from different coin designs | Design mismatch is obvious and instantly recognisable |
| Off-centre strike | Design struck off the blank's centre | Strong visual appeal; extreme offsets are rare |
| Double strike / double denomination | Struck twice or with two denominations | Dramatic and easy to authenticate visually |
| Partial collar / broadstrike | Collar fails during striking | Subtle but popular with error specialists |
What actually drives value
Rarity is only the starting point. Condition matters enormously — a proof error with cameo contrast will outperform a circulated example of the same error. Provenance and authentication also matter: coins graded by PCGS or NGC, or identified in specialist references, sell for more than raw coins with a story. Demand within Australia is strong for decimal errors, but international error collectors also compete for wrong-planchet and mule pieces, which can push prices higher.
The blog's own observation is that wrong-planchet errors are "among the hardest to find errors in the Australian decimal series." That is a practical warning: most listed errors are common die cracks or minor mis-strikes, not the headline rarities. If you are buying, ask whether the coin is a recognised error type, whether it has been graded, and whether the mint's annual reports or specialist references support the origin story.
A practical next step
If you inherit or buy a suspected error, compare it against the known error families above before assuming value. A coin that is merely worn, damaged or acid-treated is not an error. For Australian decimal errors specifically, start with the reference material and error articles at The Australian Coin Collecting Blog, and cross-check population reports from PCGS or NGC if the coin is graded. If the coin is raw, a reputable dealer or grading submission is the sensible next move before you spend money on it.
How do I subscribe to the Australian Coin Collecting Blog newsletter?
Subscribe through the newsletter signup on The Australian Coin Collecting Blog: the site's own subscription link is labelled "Subscribe to Our Newsletter" and points to its subscribe page. Enter your email address there and confirm if prompted; that's the whole process, and no account or payment is needed.
What you get and why it's worth it
The blog publishes detailed numismatic articles, such as its piece on a 1976 Australian proof one cent struck on a silver planchet — a wrong-planchet error the author describes as one of only two or three known, graded PR61CAM. A newsletter is a sensible way to catch new write-ups like that without checking the site manually.
Practical tips
- Use an address you actually read; coin-error articles are occasional, not daily.
- Check your spam folder if the confirmation email doesn't arrive within a few minutes.
- If you only want specific series, note the site also has standing index pages for $1 and $2 issues and mintages, so you can browse those directly instead.
A quick decision criterion
Subscribe if you want new error and variety articles pushed to you; skip it if you only need mintage tables, since those pages are already organised by year on the site and don't require signing up.
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