fullingmill.com

Fulling Mill sells fly tying materials across nine main categories: beads and eyes, chenille/yarn/wool, dubbing, feathers, foam, hair and fur, hooks, thread and wire, and synthetics. You can also buy saddle hackle in 20 colours and Pro Wire in 12 colours across small, medium and large sizes. The practical way to shop is to start from the fly pattern you want to tie, then match hook type and size first, and material colour and texture second.

The Full Material Range on fullingmill.com

The site's Fly Tying Materials menu lists these categories:

Two named product lines are worth flagging because the site gives specific detail:

• Saddle Hackle — available in 20 unique colours, useful when you want one hackle source across a range of dry flies, soft hackles and streamers.
• Pro Wire — 12 colours in small, medium and large, which covers ribbing on small nymphs up to larger streamers.

The site also lists tying-adjacent accessories: a fly tying mat, drop back bungs and tools. These are not materials, but they belong on the same shopping trip if you are setting up a bench.

How to Choose Materials for the Fly You Want to Tie

Work in this order, because it prevents the common mistake of buying materials that don't fit any hook you own:

1. Pick the pattern and its fishing situation. A weighted nymph, a dry fly and a saltwater streamer each demand different hooks and different body materials.
2. Choose the hook first. Hook style and size constrain everything else — a heavy jig hook will not suit a delicate dry fly.
3. Match the body material to the hook. Dubbing for slim nymph bodies, chenille or yarn for bulky streamers, foam for floating patterns.
4. Add movement and flash. Feathers, hair and fur for tails and wings; synthetics for flash.
5. Finish with wire or thread. Pro Wire for ribbing, thread for binding.

For example, if you want to tie small stream dry flies, the site's "Small Stream Dry Flies" collection is a reasonable starting reference for patterns, and you would pair those with dry fly hackle (Saddle Hackle), fine dubbing and a light wire hook. If you are tying jig streamers, start from the Rabbit Jig Streamer pattern in the What's Hot section and build around a jig hook, beads and eyes, and rabbit-style fur.

Hooks and Wire: The Two Decisions That Matter Most

Hooks and wire are where beginners overspend or under-buy. Two rules of thumb:

• Buy hooks by pattern, not by variety. A small set of hook styles in the sizes your chosen patterns call for will cover more fishing than a wide assortment of odd sizes.
• Buy wire by colour range, not by single spools. Pro Wire's 12 colours in three sizes lets you rib everything from midge nymphs to streamers without hunting for a matching spool later.

The site does not publish hook sizing charts or wire diameters in the material provided, so check the individual product pages for the specific sizes before ordering.

What Else Sits Alongside the Materials

If you are building out a tying setup, the site also sells fly boxes (including the UK-made Pro GSP range in 30D, 50D, 100D and 150D), leaders and tippet in nylon, fluorocarbon and tapered versions, and gift cards. These are storage and terminal tackle rather than tying stock, but they are commonly bought in the same order.

Fulling Mill describes itself as a manufacturer of premium fishing flies, tying materials, hooks, beads and fly boxes, with a heritage dating to the 1930s, and it adds patterns each year through its Signature Tyer Program with tyers including George Daniel, Luboš Roza, Devin Olsen and Howard Croston. That matters for material selection mainly as a signal that the patterns the materials are designed around are proven, field-tested designs rather than catalogue filler.

Practical Notes Before You Order

• The site runs separate US and UK/Rest of World stores (fullingmill.com and fullingmill.co.uk). Confirm which store you are on, since stock and shipping differ.
• The site requires JavaScript to browse; if pages appear empty, enable JavaScript or upgrade your browser.
• Clearance and New Products sections change frequently, so check them before a large order — discontinued colours are often the cheapest way to expand a material range.
• The material pages in the provided source do not list prices, so treat any budget planning as something to confirm at checkout rather than assume.

Choose a Pro GSP box if you want a UK-made box with a defined capacity tier (30D, 50D, 100D or 150D) and you already know roughly how many flies you carry per outing. Choose another Fulling Mill box style if your priority is a different layout, material or price point rather than capacity. The site presents Pro GSP as the flagship UK-made range and lists other fly boxes as a separate category, but it does not publish dimensions, compartment counts or prices for either, so confirm those with a dealer before ordering.

What Fulling Mill sells in fly boxes

Fulling Mill describes itself as a manufacturer of premium fishing flies, fly tying materials, hooks, beads and fly boxes, with a heritage dating to the 1930s. Its fly box range sits alongside flies, tying materials, hooks, leaders and tippet, and accessories.

The site's fly box messaging centres on two points:

• UK Made Fly Boxes — the "Box Your Flies Deserve" banner ties UK manufacturing to the Pro GSP line.
• Capacity tiers — Pro GSP is offered in 30D, 50D, 100D and 150D.

The fly box category is listed as "All Fly Boxes…" in the navigation, which indicates Pro GSP is one line within a wider selection rather than the only option. The site does not name the other models or describe how they differ.

How to read the Pro GSP size numbers

The 30D/50D/100D/150D labels are the main decision variable the site gives you. Treat them as a capacity ladder: the number rises across the range, so 150D holds the most and 30D the least. The site does not state what "D" stands for, the number of compartments, or the fly count per tier, so use the ladder for relative comparison only.

The use cases above are practical inferences from the size order, not manufacturer claims. If exact fly counts matter to you, ask a dealer for compartment dimensions.

Matching a box to how you fish

Work backwards from your typical outing rather than from the biggest number:

1. Count what you actually carry. Empty your current box and count flies by type (dries, nymphs, streamers, saltwater).
2. Pick the smallest tier that fits. If you carry 40–60 flies of mixed styles, 50D is the natural starting point; move up a tier only if you routinely add boxes for a second style.
3. Check the fly types you fish. Fulling Mill's catalogue spans dries, migratory patterns, nymphs, saltwater flies, soft hackles, stainless steel flies, stillwater and streamers, plus warmwater patterns. Streamers and saltwater flies take more room per fly than small dries, so a streamer angler should size up relative to a dry-fly angler with the same fly count.
4. Decide whether one box or several. Two 50D boxes can beat one 100D if you like separating dry flies from nymphs.

Pro GSP versus other Fulling Mill boxes

The site supports a clear split on one dimension only: Pro GSP is the UK-made line with published capacity tiers. For everything else — other box models, materials, closure type, waterproofing, price — the site gives no comparative detail.

Use this decision rule:

• Pick Pro GSP if UK manufacturing and a simple capacity choice are what you want, and you can confirm the physical size with a dealer.
• Look at the wider "All Fly Boxes" category if you need a specific layout (for example, a box built around streamers or saltwater patterns) or a different budget. Compare on compartment size, material and closure, since those are the attributes the site leaves unspecified.
• Check the Clearance section before buying at full price; the site runs a clearance area described as "moving fast," though it does not say which fly boxes appear there.

What to confirm before you buy

The site does not publish prices, box dimensions, compartment counts, weights or stock status for fly boxes. Before ordering, confirm with Fulling Mill or a dealer:

• External dimensions and compartment layout for your chosen tier
• Whether the box is waterproof and how it closes
• Current price and shipping terms
• Which other fly box models are in stock

Also note the site runs two storefronts — Fulling Mill US (fullingmill.com) and Fulling Mill UK/Rest of World (fullingmill.co.uk) — so check you are on the store that ships to you. The site requires JavaScript to browse, so enable it if pages do not load.

Fulling Mill is a fly fishing brand and online store that manufactures and sells premium fishing flies, fly tying materials, hooks, beads, fly boxes, and leaders and tippet. The site at fullingmill.com is the US version of its shop; visitors from the UK or elsewhere are pointed to fullingmill.co.uk. It suits anglers who want ready-tied flies and tying components from a single brand rather than a general outdoor retailer.

What the site sells

The catalog is organized around the fly and the materials used to tie or fish it:

The homepage also surfaces "New Products," "Clearance," "What's Hot," and specific lines such as Pro GSP fly boxes (30D, 50D, 100D, 150D), saddle hackle in 20 colors, Pro Wire in 12 colors and three sizes, and new flies from Devin Olsen.

Who makes the flies

Fulling Mill describes itself as a global leader in manufacturing premium fishing flies, tying materials, hooks, beads, and fly boxes, with a heritage dating to the 1930s. It runs a Signature Tyer Program that adds new patterns each year from anglers including George Daniel, Luboš Roza, Devin Olsen, and Howard Croston. The site presents these as proven fish catchers — for example, it credits Olsen's Hare's Ear Blowtorch to his time at the 2014 World Fly Fishing Championships in the Czech Republic, where a local guide showed the team a tag nymph swung for coarse fish on flatter stretches of the Vltava River.

That program is the main reason to buy here rather than from a generic fly shop: patterns are tied to named, competition-level anglers and refreshed annually.

US vs. UK/rest-of-world storefront

The site detects your location and shows "Your current site – Fulling Mill US (www.fullingmill.com)," with a link to switch to Fulling Mill UK/Rest of World at fullingmill.co.uk. If you are shopping outside the US, check the UK site for regional stock and shipping before ordering. The page does not state prices, currency handling, or whether an account is required to browse, so confirm those at checkout.

Practical notes before you buy

• Enable JavaScript. The site states that with JavaScript disabled you cannot view it, so use a standard browser with scripting on.
• Check the fly box size naming. Pro GSP boxes are sold by density/size code (30D, 50D, 100D, 150D); match the code to how many flies you plan to carry.
• Use Clearance for volume. The clearance section is positioned as fast-moving stock, useful if you tie in bulk and want materials at lower cost.
• Gift cards are listed under accessories if you are buying for another angler.

If you want a single brand for both ready-tied flies and the materials to tie your own — backed by named tyers and a long manufacturing history — fullingmill.com is a reasonable starting point. If you need a broad multi-brand comparison or local stock outside the US, start with the UK/rest-of-world site and compare against a regional dealer.

Fulling Mill organizes its fly range by the situation you're fishing rather than by species or season: the site's main fly menu lists Dries, Migratory, Nymphs, Saltwater, Soft Hackles, Stainless Steel, Stillwater, Streamers and Warmwater, with New Products and Clearance as separate entries. To pick a fly, start from the water and the way you plan to present it — surface, sub-surface, still or moving water, fresh or salt — then narrow within that group. The categories are a starting filter, not a guarantee that a pattern suits your local water, so treat the group as a shortlist and check individual patterns before buying.

What each category is for

The logic is presentation-first: Dries and Nymphs split by depth, Streamers and Soft Hackles split by movement and profile, and Stillwater, Migratory, Saltwater and Warmwater split by the water or species group you're targeting. A river angler fishing a deep run and a lake angler fishing a slow drop-off may both end up in Nymphs or Stillwater depending on how they intend to fish.

New and specialist lines

Two ranges sit slightly apart from the situation menu. Stainless Steel Flies are presented as an all-new series mixing new patterns with old favourites — relevant if you want durability in a pattern you already trust. New Products is a rolling feed of recent additions rather than a fishing situation, so use it to spot new patterns and then sort them into the categories above.

The site also flags specific pattern families, including Rabbit Jig Streamer, Small Stream Dry Flies and new tying materials and hooks. These are useful cross-checks: if you fish small streams, the Small Stream Dry Flies grouping is a faster route than browsing all Dries.

Signature Tyers and why the patterns are credible

Fulling Mill describes itself as a global manufacturer of premium fishing flies, tying materials, hooks, beads and fly boxes, with a heritage dating to the 1930s. Its Signature Tyer Program adds new patterns each year from anglers including George Daniel, Luboš Roza, Devin Olsen and Howard Croston — the site describes these as coming "from the fly boxes of anglers" and as proven fish catchers.

That matters for selection: a signature pattern is a named, attributed design rather than an anonymous catalogue fly, so you can look up the tyer's intended use before buying. The site's own example is Olsen's Hare's Ear Blowtorch, which it introduces with a first-person account of fishing a tag nymph in the Czech Republic during the 2014 World Fly Fishing Championships on the Vltava River. Use these notes as the tyer's stated context, not as a promise for your water.

A practical way to choose

1. Decide the layer: surface feeding points to Dries; otherwise start with Nymphs or Streamers.
2. Decide the water: lakes and reservoirs point to Stillwater; coastal water to Saltwater; bass and panfish to Warmwater; salmon or sea trout runs to Migratory.
3. Decide the presentation: swinging or traditional wet-fly work points to Soft Hackles; stripped baitfish profiles to Streamers.
4. Check the specialist groupings (Stainless Steel, Small Stream Dry Flies, Rabbit Jig Streamer) if you need durability or a specific water type.
5. Confirm the individual pattern and its intended use, especially for signature designs, before committing.

The site's fly boxes are marketed separately as "The Box Your Flies Deserve," with UK-made boxes and the Pro GSP range in 30D, 50D, 100D and 150D — relevant once you've settled on a category and need somewhere to store the patterns.

Fulling Mill lists four product groups under its Leaders & Tippet section: nylon, fluorocarbon, tapered leaders and connections. The site presents these as separate categories rather than a single blended range, so the practical choice is to decide which group fits your fishing situation, then pick within it. The site does not publish line diameters, breaking strains or prices in the material available, so confirm those on the individual product pages before buying.

The four categories and what each is for

The distinction that matters most is between tapered leaders and tippet. A tapered leader is a finished leader with a thick butt that narrows toward the tip; you tie it to your fly line and add tippet only as the tip wears down. Tippet is a uniform-diameter spool used to extend or rebuild the end of a leader. If you are setting up from scratch, you need a tapered leader plus at least one tippet spool. If you are maintaining an existing setup, tippet alone is usually enough.

Nylon versus fluorocarbon

Fulling Mill sells both as separate lines, which reflects the standard trade-off rather than a brand-specific difference:

• Nylon is the default for most dry-fly and general trout work. It is more forgiving and suits presentations where you want some give.
• Fluorocarbon is the choice when you want a line that sinks slightly and is less visible in clear water, or when fishing nymphs and streamers where abrasion resistance helps.

A common approach is a nylon tapered leader with a fluorocarbon tippet section, getting the turnover of nylon with the invisibility of fluorocarbon at the business end. The site does not state which combinations it recommends, so treat this as a general method rather than a Fulling Mill instruction.

Choosing based on your fishing

Work through these in order:

1. Target species and fly size. Small dries on pressured trout water point toward lighter nylon or fluorocarbon tippet. Streamers and larger nymphs need heavier material and a stiffer tapered leader that turns over bulky flies.
2. Water clarity and pressure. Clear, low, heavily fished water is where fluorocarbon earns its place. Coloured or broken water reduces the benefit.
3. Rod and line weight. Match leader and tippet strength to the rod weight you are casting; an overly light tippet on a heavy rod risks break-offs on the cast, and an overly heavy leader on a light rod kills presentation.
4. Whether you are building or repairing. New setup: tapered leader plus tippet. Worn tip: tippet and a connection knot. Check the Connections category if you need joining accessories.

What the site does and does not tell you

The Leaders & Tippet menu confirms the four groups exist and that fluorocarbon is offered alongside nylon. It does not give diameters, pound-test ratings, spool lengths or prices. Before ordering, open the individual product pages for those figures and check the current site version: the page shows a switcher between Fulling Mill US (fullingmill.com) and Fulling Mill UK/Rest of World (fullingmill.co.uk), and product availability may differ between them. The site also requires JavaScript to browse, so enable it if the menus do not load.

If your main decision is between fly box styles rather than leader material, that is a separate comparison covered elsewhere; the leader choice above stands on its own.