terawell.net

If you're new to Ahrefs and want to run your first SEO audit, the fastest path is: open Site Explorer, enter your target URL, review the Overview for a health snapshot, then dig into Organic Keywords, Top Pages, and Site Audit to find specific problems. From there, build a short prioritized to-do list instead of trying to fix everything at once.

This tutorial walks through that workflow using a realistic starting scenario, explains what the numbers mean, and shows how to turn findings into actions.

Before You Start: Pick a Narrow Scope

A common beginner mistake is auditing an entire large website on day one. The reports become overwhelming, and you can't tell which issues matter.

Instead, choose one of these starting points:

• A single important page (your homepage or a key product/service page)
• A small site (under ~50 pages, e.g., a personal blog or small business site)
• One section of a bigger site (e.g., /blog/)

For this tutorial, assume you're auditing a small business site with about 30 pages. The same steps scale up later.

You'll need an Ahrefs account to follow along. Ahrefs offers paid plans, and pricing and feature limits change over time, so check the current Pricing page for what's included in each tier before committing.

Step 1: Enter Your Target in Site Explorer

Site Explorer is Ahrefs' core tool for analyzing any website or URL.

1. Open Site Explorer from the top navigation.
2. In the search box, paste your domain (e.g., example.com).
3. Choose the Exact URL or Domain mode depending on scope. For a full-site view, use Domain or Prefix; for a single page, use Exact URL.
4. Press Enter.

You'll land on the Overview report. Don't try to absorb everything — focus on four numbers first.

Reading the Overview Snapshot

Important caveat: Ahrefs' traffic and keyword numbers are estimates based on its own data. They won't match Google Search Console or your analytics exactly. Treat them as directional, not absolute.

Step 2: See What You Already Rank For

Go to Organic Keywords in the left sidebar. This shows queries where your site appears in search results.

Sort by Traffic (descending) to see which pages bring the most estimated visitors. Then look for:

• Keywords ranking in positions 4–15 — these are often the easiest wins. A small content or on-page improvement can push them onto page one.
• Keywords with high volume but low position — potential opportunities if the topic is relevant.
• Irrelevant keywords — if you rank for something off-topic, it may signal thin or mismatched content.

Write down 5–10 of the position 4–15 keywords. These become your first optimization targets.

Step 3: Find Your Best and Weakest Pages

Open Top Pages. This ranks your URLs by estimated organic traffic.

Look for two things:

1. Your top performers — understand what topics and formats work. Can you create more content like this?
2. Pages with traffic but poor rankings — these may need on-page fixes (title, headings, internal links).

If a page gets zero traffic and targets a topic you care about, it's a candidate for a rewrite or consolidation.

Step 4: Run a Technical Site Audit

Now move to Site Audit. This crawls your site and flags technical and on-page issues.

1. Click Site Audit → New project.
2. Enter your domain and set crawl settings (default is usually fine for a small site).
3. Start the crawl and wait for it to finish.

Once complete, you'll see a Health Score and a list of issues grouped by category.

Which Issues to Fix First

Not all issues are equal. Prioritize in this order:

Ignore low-impact warnings (like minor meta description length) until the big items are handled.

Step 5: Turn Findings Into a To-Do List

You now have raw data. Convert it into a short, actionable list. Example:

1. Fix 3 broken links found in Site Audit.
2. Rewrite title tags on 5 pages with duplicate titles.
3. Improve 4 pages ranking in positions 6–12 by adding missing subtopics and internal links.
4. Remove or update 2 thin pages with no traffic.

Keep the list to 5–10 items max for your first audit. Finishing a short list beats starting a long one.

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Chasing every red flag. Site Audit flags many minor issues. Fix what affects rankings and users first.
• Trusting estimates as exact numbers. Ahrefs data is modeled, not measured from your analytics.
• Auditing a huge site too early. Start small to learn the interface.
• Ignoring search intent. A page can be technically perfect but still fail if it doesn't match what searchers want.
• Forgetting to re-crawl. After fixes, run Site Audit again to confirm improvements.

Where to Go Next

Once your first audit is done:

• Compare with competitors using Site Explorer's Competing Domains and Content Gap reports.
• Track keyword rankings over time with Rank Tracker.
• Explore backlink opportunities in the Backlinks and Link Intersect reports.
• Set up recurring Site Audit crawls so new issues surface automatically.

Your first audit isn't about perfection — it's about building a repeatable habit: enter a target, read the key reports, pick the highest-impact fixes, and act. Do that once a month and your site's health compounds.

In stainless steel fabrication, design means engineering the part so it can actually be made: setting dimensions, material grade, joint and weld details, finish and tolerances, then checking that the workshop can cut, form, weld and finish it as drawn. It is not graphic design or product styling. This stage matters whenever you need a bespoke stainless item — a frame, tank, duct, pipework run or enclosure — and it usually starts from your sketch, sample or drawing rather than a finished CAD model.

What the design stage covers

Design work in a fabrication shop turns an idea into instructions the workshop can follow. That normally includes:

• Geometry and dimensions — overall sizes, bend radii, hole positions, and how parts fit together.
• Material grade — which stainless grade suits the environment (for example a grade chosen for corrosion resistance or for weldability). The fabricator should confirm the grade rather than assume it.
• Joint and weld details — where seams run, whether welds are visible or dressed, and how access is provided for the welder.
• Finish — the surface treatment required, such as a brushed, polished or other finish, and which faces are cosmetic.
• Tolerances — how accurate the finished part must be, since tighter tolerances generally mean more work.

How design decisions affect manufacture and cost

Most cost and lead-time differences between two apparently similar parts come from design choices, not from the amount of steel:

A design that is easy to weld and finish is usually cheaper and faster than one that only looks simple on paper.

Typical design-to-manufacture workflow

1. Brief or sketch — you provide a drawing, sketch, photo or sample, plus what the part must do.
2. Design review — the fabricator checks feasibility, suggests changes, and confirms grade, finish and tolerances.
3. Agreed drawing — a dimensioned drawing or model is signed off before cutting starts.
4. Fabrication — cutting, forming, welding and finishing to the agreed drawing.
5. Inspection — the finished part is checked against the drawing and finish specification.

The design review step is where most problems are caught cheaply, before any material is cut.

Common design mistakes that cause delays

• Missing dimensions, or dimensions that do not add up.
• No material grade specified, or a grade that is hard to weld or form.
• Finish left undefined, so the workshop guesses.
• No tolerance stated, leading to disagreement at inspection.
• No allowance for weld distortion on large or thin panels.
• Cosmetic faces not marked, so they get scratched during handling.

Questions to ask a fabricator at the design stage

• Which grade do you recommend for this environment, and why?
• Can this be made as drawn, or would a small change reduce cost or lead time?
• Which faces are cosmetic, and how will you protect them?
• What tolerance can you hold, and how will it be checked?
• Will welds be visible, dressed or hidden?
• What do you need from me before you can quote and start?

Getting clear answers to these before fabrication begins is the practical way to avoid rework and unexpected cost.

DesignDoll is a desktop software program from TERAWELL SOFTWARE, in development since 2011, that lets you freely manipulate human body models in 3D space to create poses and compositions for drawing reference. It runs on Windows 7, 8, 10, and 11, and the current release noted on the site is version 6.1.0. If you draw figures and need a poseable model rather than a static reference photo, DesignDoll is built specifically for that task.

What DesignDoll actually does

The core idea is a "personalized sketch doll": a 3D human model you adjust and pose, then use as reference for a sketch. The site describes it as a "next generation sketch doll" intended to support artists, with most built-in functions based on customer requests.

Two capabilities define the workflow:

• Posing — manipulate the body model directly in 3D space with intuitive operations to reach the posture and composition you want.
• Reuse — save poses and body shapes, then drag their icons onto new models to apply them again, which cuts down repetitive setup time.

The features that matter for figure drawing

Head-to-body ratio control

DesignDoll uses a blending method: the forms and sizes of various parts can be changed freely, so a model can be reproduced with head-to-body ratios that suit your drawing rather than a fixed realistic proportion. This is what makes stylized or exaggerated characters possible in the same tool.

Perspective control

Beyond standard parallel projection, the software offers false perspectives, real perspectives, and lens perspectives, plus eye-level displays and camera viewing-angle changes. The stated purpose is to allow deformations resembling hand drawings or emphatic expressions that other 3D software cannot represent — useful when a technically correct camera angle isn't the one that reads best on the page.

Finger controller

Hands get a dedicated controller. The recommended approach is to block in the rough shape in simple mode, then switch to detailed mode for fine finger positioning. This two-stage method is faster than trying to place every finger precisely from the start.

Multiple models in one scene

You can set multiple body models within the same scene, which makes complex compositions easier to lay out — the site notes that multi-figure sketches tend to go askew otherwise. Observing from every angle is part of how the software broadens the range of expressions available to you.

Minimal controllers

Pose creation is designed around as few controllers as possible, in pursuit of speed. Fewer handles to manage means less time spent hunting for the right control and more time on the pose itself.

Sharing and reusing poses

Poses you create can be exported as 3D models to Doll-Atelier, a pose-sharing website run alongside the software. Combined with the local pose collection, this means a pose you build once can be reused across projects or shared with other artists.

What you need to run it

The site's navigation includes Home, Download, Tutorials, PoseTag, MorphingTag, ScaleTag, HandTag, ImportTag, SketchTag, ClayTag, MemoTag, Pose Creation (Practice), Introduction to Using Cameras, Shop, and FAQ. The presence of a Shop section and a "buy now" signal indicates the software is a paid product; the site also has FAQ entries covering license key registration, startup failure, and account management, so licensing is part of the setup process. Pricing specifics are not stated in the available material — check the Shop page for current terms.

Where to start

1. Download the current version from the site's Download page.
2. Work through the Tutorials section, particularly Pose Creation (Practice) and Introduction to Using Cameras, since camera and perspective behavior is where DesignDoll differs most from generic 3D tools.
3. Build a first pose using simple mode for the overall shape, then refine hands in detailed mode.
4. Save the result to your pose collection so it can be dragged onto future models.

If your goal is a poseable, stylized human reference you can adjust quickly and reuse, DesignDoll is aimed directly at that. If you need photoreal rendering or non-human subjects, it is not the tool the site describes.

A pose reference is any image, photo, or 3D model an artist consults to get the body's position, proportion, and perspective right before or during a drawing. You use one when a pose is too complex to invent from memory — a foreshortened arm, a twisted torso, a hand holding an object — or when you need a specific camera angle you can't picture accurately. The reference is a measuring tool, not a template to trace: you read angles, overlaps, and weight distribution from it, then draw your own character in that structure.

Why artists use pose references

The human eye is good at spotting wrong anatomy but bad at recalling it. A reference solves three recurring problems:

• Proportion — head-to-body ratio, limb length relative to torso, how large a hand looks at a given distance.
• Perspective — which parts overlap, which are foreshortened, where the horizon sits relative to the figure.
• Weight and balance — where the center of gravity falls, which leg carries the load, how the spine curves to compensate.

Without a reference, these tend to drift, and the result reads as "stiff" or "off" even when no single line is obviously wrong.

The three main sources, compared

DesignDoll (terawell.net) sits in the second category. It's a 3D sketch doll you manipulate directly in 3D space, and its stated design goal is to let you "create postures and compositions that artists demand, with easy, intuitive operations." It also exports models to a pose-sharing site called Doll-Atelier, which bridges the second and third categories.

Matching a reference to what you actually need

Before you open anything, decide four things:

1. Angle — front, three-quarter, profile, or from above/below. A great pose at the wrong angle is useless.
2. Perspective — do you want a flat, diagram-like view, or a dramatic lens view? These are different tools.
3. Body type — the reference's proportions should match your character's, or you'll fight it the whole way.
4. Pose complexity — a simple standing pose needs less precision than an intertwined two-figure composition.

DesignDoll addresses these directly. It uses a blending method so you can change the form and size of body parts freely, "allowing models to be reproduced with head to body ratios that intuitively suit the drawing." For perspective, it offers parallel projection alongside false, real, and lens perspectives, plus eye-level display and adjustable camera viewing angle — so you can reproduce "deformations resembling hand drawings or emphatic expressions that cannot be represented with other 3D software." For complex scenes, it lets you set multiple body models in the same scene, which helps when a composition would otherwise go askew.

A practical workflow

1. Block the pose roughly. In DesignDoll, the site describes a simple mode for the rough shape, then a detailed mode — for hands specifically, a dedicated finger controller lets you work coarsely first and refine after. Do the same mentally with any reference: get the big shapes and angles down before details.
2. Check from more than one angle. The site notes that "by observing from every angle, the breadth of possible expressions is increased." Even with a photo, mentally rotate the figure to confirm you understand the 3D structure, not just the silhouette.
3. Lock proportions early. Compare head height to total height, shoulder width to hip width. Fix mismatches before rendering.
4. Draw your own character over the structure. Keep the reference's angles and overlaps; change the surface — face, hair, clothing, stylization.
5. Reuse what works. DesignDoll lets you drag pose and body shape icons onto new models, so a pose you built once becomes a reusable asset. The same principle applies to a personal folder of photo references sorted by angle.

Adapting a reference without copying it

Copying a reference exactly usually produces a stiff, over-literal drawing. To adapt:

• Change the camera slightly. A few degrees of rotation forces you to understand the form rather than trace it.
• Exaggerate one axis. Push the spine curve or the reach of a limb beyond what the reference shows.
• Swap the body type. Keep the pose, change the proportions — this is exactly what DesignDoll's blending method is built for.
• Alter the lighting. A different light direction reveals different forms and breaks the "copied" feel.

Common pitfalls

• Stiff poses. Usually caused by copying a static reference too literally, or by a 3D model left in a default stance. Push the pose past comfortable before dialing it back.
• Mismatched proportions. Happens when the reference's body type differs from your character's and you don't adjust. Set proportions first, pose second.
• Wrong perspective. A pose that looks fine flat falls apart in foreshortening. Check the horizon line and vanishing behavior before committing.
• Over-reliance on one source. A single photo can't tell you what the back of the figure is doing. Use a 3D tool or a second angle when the pose is ambiguous.
• Losing your own style. If every drawing traces a reference, the work looks generic. Use references for structure, then draw the character you actually want.

Choosing your tool

If you need a specific, unusual angle and can't find a photo, use 3D model software like DesignDoll — it runs on Windows 7 through 11 (version 6.1.0 at the time of the source page) and is built around fast, minimal-controller pose creation. If you need realistic lighting and fabric, use photos. If you want a quick starting pose to adapt, browse a pose-sharing site such as Doll-Atelier. Most artists end up using all three, picking whichever matches the specific problem in front of them.

Sketchful.io is a free browser-based multiplayer drawing and guessing game — a Pictionary-style contest where players take turns sketching a word while everyone else races to type the correct guess. You play it at sketchful.io, and to join a lobby your network needs a Google account, so sign in with Google once before you start. From there you can jump into a public room or create your own with custom rules.

How a Round Works

The game runs in rounds. Each round, one player is given a word to draw and a countdown timer; everyone else types guesses into the chat. The faster you guess, the more points you earn, and the drawer scores when people guess their word. After the drawing time runs out or the word is guessed, the next player takes a turn.

The default room settings shown in the lobby are:

Getting Into a Game

1. Open sketchful.io in your browser.
2. Sign in with Google when prompted — the site states your network needs a Google account to join a lobby, and one sign-in is enough.
3. Join a public lobby, or create your own room and share the room link with friends so they can join.
4. When it's your turn, draw the word shown to you. When it isn't, type guesses as fast as you can.

If you create a private room, only people with the link can get in, which is the usual way to play with a specific group.

Drawing Controls

The in-game tutorial lists these controls:

• F — flood fill
• B — brush
• E — erase
• C — clear
• Z — undo
• Mouse wheel — change brush size

There's also a drawing menu with Share, Download, Edit, and Delete, and a gallery you can log in to save drawings to.

Room Customization

When you host, you can set the lobby name, visibility (public or private), drawing time, max players, number of rounds, a welcome message, and the game mode. You can also load a custom word list — the site ships with themed lists such as 3–6 letter words, shapes, AI words, advanced English, and many more — or upload your own file.

House Rules and Moderation

The game asks players to follow a few basic rules:

• Don't write the word you're drawing, and don't spoil the word or type it in chat.
• Keep content PG-13 and be nice to others.
• Protect your privacy.

You can click on players to see their stats, kick them, or report them. Reports cover inappropriate drawings, chat abuse or harassment, cheating or auto-guessing, and other issues, and they send the reported player's drawing and recent chat to moderators. Reporting players and turning off the profanity filter both require logging in.

Common Snags

• Kicked for inactivity — if you stop playing, a warning appears and you'll be removed after about 15 seconds unless you confirm you're still there.
• Can't join a lobby — you likely haven't signed in with Google yet.
• Can't report or disable the profanity filter — both need you to be logged in.
• Want to keep a drawing — use Download or Save Recording from the drawing menu, or log in to save to your gallery.