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What is Corvair Forum?
Corvair Forum is an enthusiast-run discussion board and knowledge base for owners of the Chevrolet Corvair, organized around preserving and maintaining the car through shared mechanical advice, event notices and how-to write-ups. Its own description frames it as "an ever evolving knowledge base made up of Corvair Enthusiasts from all over the world," and the visible activity supports that: recent threads cover a locked gas cap, carburetor modifications for individual air filters, a late-model car with a Powerglide dying at stops, and an overheating engine running to 25 replies.
Who it suits
- Owners diagnosing a specific fault. The "Ask your Mechanical Questions here" section is where most current traffic sits, so a first post describing symptoms, model year and transmission type is the natural entry point.
- People planning a repair or modification. The DIY section carries demonstration-style threads, such as one on finding a car cover that fits a Greenbrier by comparing similarly sized vehicles.
- Owners tracking events and parts. A "Corvair Only Shows and Events" section lists gatherings like a fan belt toss and swap meet, and there is a vendor area with free ad space.
Trade-offs to expect
A forum like this rewards patience: answers arrive from other owners rather than a support desk, and thread quality varies from a two-reply guess to a long diagnostic back-and-forth. The value is in the archive and the model-specific experience, not speed. Note also that the board states logged-in members see no ads, while guests encounter promotional and affiliate content on the portal page.
Next step: before posting a question, search the mechanical section for your symptom plus your model year and transmission, since common issues like overheating or a Powerglide stalling in drive have likely been covered. If you post, include engine type, year, and what you have already tested.
For comparison, CORSA is the official Corvair Society of America site, useful for club chapters and national events, while this forum is better for hands-on repair threads.
How do I diagnose why my Corvair dies at stops when in drive with a Powerglide transmission?
Start with the classic Powerglide stall test: does the engine die only when you're stopped and in Drive, or also in Neutral? If it recovers in Neutral and the idle is otherwise smooth, the fault is usually in how the torque converter loads the engine at idle, not in the ignition or fuel system generally.
Likely causes, easiest first
- Idle speed set too low. A Powerglide in Drive drags the engine down. Raise the curb idle slightly (in Neutral, per the shop manual spec) and recheck in Drive with the brake held.
- Idle mixture and choke. A lean idle or a choke that isn't fully opening will stall under load. Confirm the choke pull-off and fast-idle cam release.
- Vacuum leaks. Hoses, carb base gaskets, and the balance tube are common on Corvairs. A small leak that's harmless in Neutral can tip a loaded idle over the edge.
- Ignition condition. Worn points, a weak coil, or incorrect timing show up first at low rpm under load. Check dwell and timing before chasing the transmission.
- Torque converter or modulator. If idle quality is fine and the stall is abrupt, a failing converter or a misadjusted vacuum modulator becomes plausible. A converter that drags at rest will load the engine even with the car stationary.
- Carburetor balance. On a two-carb engine, uneven idle screws mean one side does most of the work and stalls first under load.
A practical diagnostic sequence
- Warm the engine fully, then set idle in Neutral to spec and note the rpm drop when you shift to Drive.
- Spray carb cleaner around gaskets and hoses; any rpm change points to a leak.
- Recheck timing and dwell at idle.
- If all of that is correct and the stall persists, test the modulator and inspect the converter.
Where to get model-specific detail
The Corvair Forum's "Ask your Mechanical Questions here" section carries active threads on exactly this symptom, including a recent one on an LM Corvair with a Powerglide dying at stops in Drive, plus related threads on overheating and torque converter diagnosis. Reading a few of those gives you the year-specific idle specs and the checks other owners used before replacing parts. Corvair Forum
For parts and service references, the Corvair Society of America chapter network and Clark's Corvair Parts are the standard starting points for manuals and rebuild kits. Corvair Society of America
A sensible next step: post your year, engine, and the exact rpm in Neutral versus Drive, and ask whether others saw the same drop before their converter failed. That single data point usually separates a tuning problem from a transmission one.
What causes a Corvair engine to overheat, and how can I fix it?
Overheating in a Corvair is nearly always a cooling-air problem rather than a coolant problem: the engine is air-cooled, so anything that blocks, leaks or misdirects airflow shows up as high head temperatures. The forum's "Overheating motor" thread (started by aj_ed, with replies from Richard and others) is a good example of owners working through exactly this list on a real car.
Common causes on a Corvair
- Missing or damaged cooling tin. The shrouds, heater-duct seals and perimeter seals force air through the fins. A missing lower shroud, a torn rubber seal or an open heater outlet lets air escape before it cools anything.
- Debris in the fins or fan. Leaves, mouse nests and oily dirt packed into the cylinder fins or the fan shroud restrict flow. This is the first thing to check on a car that has sat.
- Fan belt problems. The Corvair's single V-belt drives the cooling fan; a loose, glazed or thrown belt means no cooling. Carry a spare and know how to fit it.
- Ignition timing and mixture. Retarded timing or a lean condition raises combustion temperatures. Verify timing and check for vacuum leaks before blaming the cooling system.
- Thermostat doors stuck shut. The lower doors should open as the engine warms; if they jam closed, hot air can't exit.
- A tired engine or clogged oil cooler. Excessive blow-by and a dirty oil cooler add heat that the air system can't shed.
A practical order of checks
- Belt tension and condition, then fan and shroud for debris.
- All tin and seals in place, heater outlets closed when not in use.
- Thermostat doors open freely.
- Timing, dwell and mixture set to spec.
- Oil cooler clean, oil level correct.
For a reader diagnosing a specific symptom—say, overheating only at highway speed versus only at idle—posting the details in the mechanical questions section of Corvair Forum tends to get targeted replies from owners who have solved the same case. As general advice, keep a temperature gauge or head-temp instrument fitted so you catch a rise before damage occurs.
How can I tell if my Corvair's torque converter is failing?
A failing torque converter in a Corvair usually shows up first as a change in how the car behaves when you select Drive: slipping, delayed engagement, shuddering at low speed, or stalling when you come to a stop. The forum's recent thread "Is my torque converter dead?" sits in the mechanical-questions section, which is where owners describe these symptoms and compare them with others' experience. Use that as a starting point to see whether your symptoms match, then work through the checks below.
Checks to run before blaming the converter
- Fluid level and condition: check the automatic transmission fluid with the engine running and the car in the correct range for a Powerglide; dark, burnt-smelling fluid points to internal wear.
- Stall at stops in Drive: a common Corvair complaint, but it can come from idle speed, carburetion, vacuum leaks or the modulator rather than the converter itself.
- Linkage and modulator: confirm the throttle linkage and vacuum modulator are adjusted and leak-free; a failed modulator mimics converter trouble.
- Noise and vibration: a whining or grinding that rises with engine speed in gear, or shudder under light acceleration, is more suggestive of converter or pump problems.
- Manual and vacuum tests: a shop can run a stall test and line-pressure check to separate converter faults from valve-body or band issues.
How to use the forum
Post your symptoms in the "Ask your Mechanical Questions here" board with the model year, transmission type, and what you have already checked. Photographs of the fluid and a short description of when the problem occurs get better replies than a general "is it dead?" question. Search existing threads first; questions about stalling in Drive, overheating, and transmission behavior recur often.
For background on the car's automatic transmission and parts sources, the Corvair Society of America and Clark's Corvair Parts are useful references alongside the forum.
Where can I find Corvair-only shows and swap meets like the Fan Belt Toss?
The Corvair Forum is a practical starting point: its "Corvair Only Shows and Events" section carries announcements and updates for Corvair-specific gatherings, including the Fan Belt Toss & Swap Meet. Because events are posted and discussed by owners, you often get date changes, vendor lists and travel notes in the replies rather than just a bare listing.
How to use it
- Open the events section and sort by recent activity to catch schedule updates.
- Search the forum by event name (e.g., "Fan Belt Toss") to find past threads with photos, swap-meet tips and what sold well.
- Post your region and ask which Corvair-only events are near you; regulars tend to answer with local club contacts.
Other places worth checking
- Corvair Society of America — the national club lists chapters and their events, which is the most reliable route to local Corvair-only shows and swap meets.
- CORSA — the same organization's official domain, useful if the first link redirects or you want the current events page.
- Corvair Center Forum — another active owner community with event threads and regional discussion.
Choosing where to look first
If you want one event's latest details, the Corvair Forum thread is quickest. If you want a calendar of Corvair-only shows across regions, start with the national club's chapter list, then confirm details in forum threads, since dates and venues can shift.
How do I modify Corvair carburetors to run individual air filters?
The practical approach is to replace the stock central air cleaner with one small filter per carburetor, but the linkage and fuel lines usually need as much attention as the filters themselves. On a Corvair Forum thread about this exact swap, members discuss carburetor changes for individual filters on Corvair Forum; treat their observations as owner experience, not a parts list.
What the swap involves
- Filter choice and fitment: Each carburetor needs a filter base that clears the engine lid and the fan shroud. Measure the vertical clearance above the carburetor throat before ordering anything.
- Linkage: The stock cross-shaft and throttle rods assume the original air cleaner assembly. Individual filters often interfere with the linkage or the choke rods, so check full throttle travel and choke operation after fitting.
- Fuel lines and balance tube: The balance tube between the two carburetors is easy to disturb when you rework the intake area. Confirm it is reconnected and leak-free.
- Crankcase ventilation: The stock air cleaner often carries the breather connection. Plan where the breather hose goes with individual filters, or you will have an oil-mist leak.
- Jet and mixture check: More airflow can lean the mixture. Recheck idle and plug readings after the change rather than assuming the stock jetting still suits the engine.
A sensible next step
Search the forum's mechanical section for existing threads on individual filters and read the replies before buying parts; the "Modify Carbs for Individual Filters" discussion is a starting point. Then test-fit one side with the engine lid closed and the throttle worked by hand. If you want broader context on Corvair intake and carburetor work, the Corvair Society of America at Corvair Society of America and Clark's Corvair Parts at Clark's Corvair Parts are established references for parts and technical material.
The main trade-off: individual filters simplify access and can look cleaner, but they add tuning variables and fitment risk. If the car is a driver you rely on, keep the stock setup until the new arrangement idles, revs and passes a leak check.
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