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What is Denny's Driveshaft?

Denny's Driveshaft is a specialist shop for custom driveshafts and driveline parts, based in the U.S. and describing itself as a 50-year-old business. Its catalog centers on high-speed, high-RPM balanced steel and aluminum driveshafts, plus the supporting parts that go with them.

What it sells

• Custom driveshafts: nitrous-ready 1350-series, street rod and street rod HD, aluminum, Cobra kit car, 4x4 and 2WD versions.
• Driveline parts: axles and diff parts, bearings and bearing kits, bushings, ring-and-pinion gears, differential internals, seals, slip yokes, end and flange yokes, universal joints, weld yokes, tubing, center support bearings, CV and double-cardan parts, and PTO/agricultural shafts.
• Shop-by-vehicle navigation for Buick, Chevrolet, Chrysler, Dodge, Ford, Jeep, Lincoln, Mercury, Mopar, Oldsmobile, Plymouth and Pontiac, plus brand sections such as Spicer Select, AAM, NEAPCO, Yukon Gear and Axle, and DT Components.

Who it's for

The focus is on people building or repairing vehicles where a stock replacement won't do: street rods, kit cars (the Cobra listing is a clear signal), race and high-performance cars, 4x4 trucks, and 2WD trucks and vans. If you're maintaining a daily driver with a common factory shaft, a local driveline shop or a mainstream parts store may be simpler. If you need a balanced shaft rated for high RPM, or you're chasing a specific yoke, spline or conversion part, this is the kind of specialist catalog that makes the difference.

Practical trade-offs

• Custom-length shafts require you to measure correctly and supply the right specs; ordering is not a one-click fitment like a mass-market part.
• The parts depth is a real advantage for rebuilds and swaps, but the site is organized around long category lists, so knowing your part number or measurements speeds things up.
• The site advertises free shipping on parts orders over $99, which matters most on heavy items like axles and tubing.

Next step

Decide which path you're on before browsing: if you have a stock vehicle, look up your year/make/model first; if you're building something modified, gather measurements (length, yoke type, U-joint series, transmission output) and then compare against the driveshaft categories. For general driveline reference material, Denny's Driveshaft publishes an information library and diagrams alongside its parts listings.

How do I choose the right driveshaft for my specific vehicle?

Choosing the right driveshaft comes down to matching four things to your vehicle and how you use it: length, tube material and diameter, universal joint and yoke series, and balance/speed rating. Denny's organizes its catalog around exactly these decision points — Denny's Driveshaft and Driveline Parts lists driveshafts by application (Nitrous Ready 1350 Series, Street Rod, Street Rod HD, Aluminum, Cobra Kit Car, 4x4, 2WD) and also lets you shop by vehicle make, which is the fastest way to narrow the field.

Start with these four measurements and specs

• Center-to-center length: measure from the transmission output yoke to the pinion yoke with the vehicle at ride height, suspension loaded. Length drives the critical speed calculation, so it is the first number to get right.
• U-joint series: 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410 and similar sizes are not interchangeable. Note what your transmission yoke and pinion yoke accept.
• Yoke styles: pinion yokes, slip yokes, flange yokes, end yokes and weld yokes all appear as separate line items in the catalog, so confirm whether your shaft ends in a bolt-on flange or a slip yoke.
• Power, torque and RPM: a mild street cruiser and a nitrous-assisted drag car have very different requirements even in the same body.

Match the shaft type to the use

A practical example

If you have a 1969 Camaro with a mild small-block, a 700R4 and street tires, a Street Rod steel shaft in the correct length with 1310 or 1330 joints is usually the sensible choice. Add a 150-shot of nitrous, sticky tires and a 4.10 gear, and the same car wants a larger-diameter shaft with 1350-series joints and a higher balance rating — the Nitrous Ready line exists for that scenario. The vehicle didn't change; the load did.

Next step

Measure your center-to-center length, identify your u-joint series at both ends, and note your transmission and rear axle. Then use the shop-by-vehicle path on Denny's Driveshaft and Driveline Parts to pull the matching shafts and yokes, and compare the specs against your power level before ordering. If your combination is unusual — a swapped engine, a narrowed rear, a lift kit — call and give them the numbers rather than guessing, since a shaft that is even slightly wrong in length or balance can cause vibration or failure.

What is the difference between steel and aluminum driveshafts?

Steel and aluminum driveshafts differ mainly in weight, strength and how they behave at speed. Steel is denser and generally more resistant to dents and fatigue; aluminum is lighter, which reduces rotating mass and can free up a little power and improve throttle response. The trade-off is that aluminum usually needs a larger diameter to match steel's stiffness, and it can be more vulnerable to surface damage.

Denny's Driveshafts lists both steel and aluminum options, including aluminum tubing and steel tubing, plus complete aluminum and 4x4/2WD driveshafts. That tells you the choice is treated as application-specific rather than one being universally better. The site also emphasizes high-speed, high-RPM balanced shafts, which matters because imbalance and critical speed are the real limits for any material.

As a practical example, a lifted 4x4 used for towing and rough terrain usually favors steel for durability, while a street rod or kit car where every pound counts often favors aluminum. If your car has a small transmission tunnel, a smaller steel shaft may fit where a larger aluminum one will not.

Next step: measure your available clearance, expected horsepower, maximum RPM and vehicle use, then match those to the steel or aluminum category on Denny's Driveshafts. If you are unsure, a custom builder can calculate critical speed and recommend a diameter and material rather than leaving it to guesswork.

How do I measure for a custom driveshaft?

Measuring for a custom driveshaft comes down to one critical dimension: the distance between the transmission output and the rear axle, measured in the car's normal loaded position. Get this wrong and you'll deal with vibration, binding, or a shaft that simply won't fit.

The basics of a correct measurement

• Measure with the vehicle at ride height, on the ground or on ramps, with the suspension loaded and the weight on the tires. A car on jack stands with the rear hanging will give you the wrong number.
• Measure from the center of the transmission output yoke's U-joint bore (or the flat face of the output shaft, depending on the yoke style) to the center of the rear pinion yoke's U-joint bore.
• Record the measurement to the nearest 1/8 inch. Driveshaft builders typically want the center-to-center U-joint distance, not the length of the old shaft.
• Note the type and series of both yokes, the U-joint series, and whether the rear end is a slip-yoke or fixed-flange design. A builder cannot supply the right shaft without these.

Why loaded position matters

As the suspension compresses, the pinion angle and the distance between the transmission and axle change. If you measure with the axle hanging, the shaft will be too long and can bottom out under compression, damaging the transmission or pinion bearing. If you measure with the car unloaded but on the ground, that's usually the correct reference point.

What Denny's offers for this job

The site organizes shafts by application, including nitrous-ready 1350-series, street rod, street rod HD, aluminum, Cobra kit car, 4x4, and 2WD categories, plus a build-it-yourself parts list section for people assembling their own driveline. It also carries the supporting parts you'd need for the install: end yokes, flange yokes, slip yokes, weld yokes in steel and aluminum, universal joints, tubing, and center support bearings. For a custom order, the practical path is to confirm your yoke types and series, then call the shop with your loaded center-to-center measurement rather than guessing from a drop-down menu.

A concrete example

Say you have a 1969 Camaro with a TH350 and a 12-bolt rear. You'd measure from the U-joint center at the transmission tailshaft to the U-joint center at the pinion yoke with the car sitting on its tires. Suppose that's 48 3/8 inches. You'd also note that both ends use 1310-series U-joints and that the transmission has a slip yoke. With those three facts, a builder can make a shaft that fits and balances correctly.

Decision criteria and next step

If you're unsure whether you need a custom shaft or an off-the-shelf one, check whether your combination is stock. Stock engine, stock transmission, stock rear, stock ride height usually means an off-the-shelf replacement works. Any change to engine, transmission, rear end, or suspension geometry usually pushes you toward custom.

Before ordering, verify your measurement twice and confirm the U-joint series at both ends. If you want a second opinion on measurement technique, the general guidance from major driveline manufacturers is consistent on the loaded-position rule, and forums for your specific platform often list known center-to-center lengths for common swaps. For parts and custom work, Denny's Driveshaft and Driveline Parts Denny's Driveshaft and Driveline Parts is a specialist option worth contacting directly with your numbers.

What are the signs that my driveshaft or universal joints need replacing?

The clearest signs are new vibrations, clunking or chirping noises, and visible looseness or rust at the joints. On this site, universal joints, yokes, center support bearings and complete driveshafts are sold as separate parts, so you can often replace just the worn joint rather than the whole shaft. See Denny's Driveshaft and Driveline Parts.

Symptoms worth acting on

• Vibration that changes with speed. A steady shudder that appears at a specific road speed and fades above or below it usually points to imbalance or a worn universal joint. Vibration under acceleration but not coasting often means a joint or yoke problem.
• Clunk on takeoff or gear change. A single heavy clunk when you engage drive or reverse can come from a worn universal joint, a loose slip yoke, or a bad center support bearing.
• Squeaking or chirping that speeds up with the vehicle. Dry or seized joint needle bearings squeak rhythmically. This is an early warning; ignoring it can let the joint seize and damage the yoke.
• Visible rust dust or red powder around a joint cap. That residue is a strong sign the needle bearings have lost grease and are grinding.
• Play you can feel by hand. With the vehicle safely lifted and the transmission in neutral, twisting the shaft or rocking the joint should show almost no movement. Side-to-side or rotational play means replacement.
• Dents, deep scratches or missing balance weights on the tube. These cause imbalance that no joint replacement will fix.

Decide: joint or whole shaft

Next step

Safely raise the vehicle, block the wheels, put it in neutral and try to rotate and rock the shaft by hand. If you find play or rust, note the joint series and yoke dimensions before ordering. If the tube is damaged or the vibration persists after new joints, measure for a custom shaft instead. For heavy off-road or high-RPM use, a balanced steel or aluminum shaft built for the application is the more durable route than repeatedly rebuilding a worn original.

Does Denny's Driveshaft offer free shipping and what are the conditions?

Yes — Denny's Driveshaft advertises free shipping on parts orders over $99. That threshold applies to parts orders; the site does not state here whether custom-built driveshafts or oversized items are included, so confirm that before ordering.

What the site says

• Free shipping applies to parts orders over $99.
• The offer is tied to parts, not automatically to every product or service.
• Custom driveshafts are built and balanced to order, so shipping terms for those may differ.

Practical next step If your cart is close to $99, adding a small consumable — universal joints, seals, bearings, hardware or lubricant — can push a parts order over the threshold. If you are ordering a custom driveshaft, ask by phone (the site lists 800-955-1872) whether free shipping still applies, since custom and oversized items are commonly excluded from such offers.

Decision criterion Compare the total delivered cost, not just the headline shipping offer. For a parts-only order, the $99 threshold is straightforward. For a mixed order of parts plus a built shaft, get the shipping quote in writing before checkout.

For broader price and delivery comparisons, you can also check Spicer Parts and RockAuto, though their shipping policies differ and are not tied to Denny's offer.