onwatergarden.com

In a water garden, "lilly" almost always refers to the water lily (Nymphaea)—a floating-leaf aquatic plant grown for its shade, flowers, and cover for fish. You can grow one in a container on a pond shelf or floor as long as it gets roughly 5–6 hours of direct sun, is planted in heavy soil rather than loose potting mix, and is kept from covering more than about half to two-thirds of the water surface. The Greater Toronto Water Garden & Horticultural Society (GTWGHS), a club for water gardeners and "ponders" in the Toronto area, treats plants like lilies as a standard part of pond keeping, alongside pumps, filters, and heaters.

Water lily vs. lotus vs. other floaters

The word "lilly" is often used loosely, so it helps to separate the plants you'll actually meet at a pond shop:

If your goal is shade and flowers at water level, you want a water lily. If you want height and seed pods, that's lotus. The GTWGHS keyword list includes both "lilly" and "hyacinth," which reflects how often these get confused in beginner questions.

Why water lilies matter in a pond

A lily is not just decoration. Its floating pads:

• Block sunlight, which slows algae growth in the water below.
• Lower water temperature in summer, which reduces stress on fish.
• Give fish and frogs shade and hiding spots from herons and sun.
• Absorb nutrients through the roots, competing with algae for food.

The trade-off is coverage. If pads cover the whole surface, gas exchange slows and submerged plants and fish suffer. Aim for roughly half to two-thirds coverage at maturity, not more.

Choosing a lily: hardy vs. tropical

• Hardy water lilies survive winter in cold climates if the crown doesn't freeze. They generally bloom during the day and are the safer choice for a Toronto-area pond.
• Tropical water lilies flower more heavily and often have stronger fragrance, but they are treated as annuals or brought indoors in cold regions.
• Dwarf and small varieties suit tubs and small ponds; large varieties need more space and deeper water.

Check the label for the spread (how wide the pads grow) and the recommended planting depth, because both vary widely by variety.

How to plant a water lily

1. Pick the container. Use a wide, shallow pot with no drainage holes, or a fabric aquatic planting bag.
2. Use heavy soil. Fill with garden loam or aquatic soil—not lightweight potting mix, which floats out and clouds the water.
3. Set the rhizome. Place the rhizome at the edge of the pot with the growing tip pointing toward the center, and bury it so the crown sits just at the soil line.
4. Add fertilizer. Push a slow-release aquatic fertilizer tab into the soil near the roots, following the package rate.
5. Top with gravel. A layer of pea gravel keeps soil in place and stops fish from digging.
6. Lower the pot. Set it on a shelf first so leaves reach the surface, then move it deeper as stems lengthen. A common starting point is 6–18 inches of water over the crown for smaller varieties, deeper for large ones.

Expected result: new leaves reach the surface within days to a couple of weeks in warm water, and flowers appear in summer once the plant is established.

Care and common problems

• Yellow leaves: often too little light, overcrowding, or missing nutrients. Divide the rhizome and re-fertilize.
• No flowers: usually insufficient sun (under about 5 hours) or the pot is too small for the variety.
• Spreading too far: divide the rhizome every year or two, cutting away older sections and replanting the vigorous growing tips.
• Cloudy water after planting: soil escaped the pot—top-dress with more gravel and let it settle.
• Winter: in cold regions, move hardy lilies to the deepest part of the pond below the freeze line, or store the pot in a cool, frost-free spot.

Where a local club fits in

The GTWGHS describes itself as a club for water gardeners from beginners to professionals, with meetings that include speakers, a question-and-answer session, a plant table, and refreshments, and some meetings held at a nursery or a private water garden. Membership is per calendar year: $20.00 for a single membership or $25 for a family membership (two people in the same household). For a beginner deciding which lily to buy, a plant table and Q&A session are a practical way to see what actually grows in local conditions. Contact is by email, and meeting directions are on the club's Contact Us page.

A waterfall in a water garden is a designed drop where pond water flows over rock, liner, or a preformed channel before returning to the pond. It is created by a pond pump moving water from the pond to a higher point, then letting gravity carry it back down. The result is circulation, aeration, and a moving visual feature that also adds sound. This explanation covers how a waterfall fits into a backyard pond, what parts make it work, and what to consider when planning or maintaining one.

The role of a waterfall in a pond or water garden

A waterfall is not a separate water body. It is part of the same system as the pond and usually shares the same water, pump, and liner. In a water garden, it typically serves several functions at once:

• Circulation: It moves water from one part of the pond to another, which helps prevent stagnant areas.
• Aeration: As water tumbles over rocks or drops into the pond, it picks up oxygen and mixes it into the water.
• Visual and sound appeal: The sight and sound of moving water are often the main reasons people add a waterfall.
• Habitat and hiding places: Rocks and crevices around a waterfall can provide shelter for fish and other pond life.

The Greater Toronto Water Garden & Horticultural Society describes itself as a club for water gardeners, from beginners to advanced, and lists pond, fountain, watergarden, waterfall, pond pump, pond filter, and pond heater among its topics. That range reflects how a waterfall is usually one component within a broader pond setup rather than a standalone feature.

How a waterfall is created with a pump and liner

A basic waterfall works through a simple loop: water is pumped up, released at a high point, and flows back down to the pond.

The main parts

• Pond pump: Moves water from the pond to the top of the waterfall.
• Flexible liner or preformed shell: Forms the watertight surface under the waterfall so water does not soak into the surrounding soil.
• Rocks or stone: Shape the channel, create the drop, and hide the liner.
• Tubing: Carries water from the pump to the waterfall outlet.
• Waterfall outlet or spillway: The point where water leaves the tubing and starts its descent.

The basic sequence

1. The pump sits in the pond, usually in a skimmer or at the lowest point.
2. Tubing runs from the pump up to the top of the waterfall.
3. Water exits at the top and flows over the liner and rocks.
4. Gravity carries the water back into the pond.
5. The same water is pumped up again, so the cycle repeats continuously.

The key requirement is that the liner under the waterfall must overlap the pond liner so water returns to the pond instead of leaking behind or under the falls.

Benefits: aeration, circulation, and visual appeal

A waterfall does not replace a pond filter, but it can complement one by improving water movement. In many backyard ponds, the waterfall and filter work together as part of the same circulation system.

Common design choices: rock placement and flow rate

Two decisions shape how a waterfall looks and behaves.

Rock placement

• Stacked and irregular: Closer to a natural stream or cascade.
• Formal and uniform: Cut stone or a spillway for a more structured look.
• Single drop vs. multiple drops: One large fall gives a stronger sound; several smaller falls create a gentler effect.
• Edge overlap: Rocks should overlap so water does not run behind them.

Flow rate

Flow rate is the volume of water moved per unit of time, usually measured in gallons per hour (GPH). A higher flow generally produces a fuller, louder fall. A lower flow may trickle or spread thin. The right flow depends on the width of the waterfall and the look you want. If the flow is too low, water may not cover the rock face evenly; if it is too high, it may splash out of the channel.

Pump size, tubing diameter, and the height the water must be lifted all affect the actual flow at the top of the waterfall. A pump rated for a certain GPH at zero height will deliver less at the top of a tall waterfall.

Basic maintenance considerations

A waterfall needs occasional attention to keep running well.

• Check for leaks: Look for water escaping the liner edges or pooling where it should not.
• Clear blockages: Leaves, algae, and debris can clog the pump intake or the waterfall channel.
• Inspect the pump: A pump that loses flow may need cleaning or replacement.
• Watch water levels: Evaporation and splash loss mean the pond may need topping up, especially in warm weather.
• Seasonal care: In colder climates, freezing can damage pumps, tubing, and rocks. The Greater Toronto Water Garden & Horticultural Society lists pond heaters among its topics, which reflects the kind of seasonal equipment some pond owners use.

Where to learn more

The Greater Toronto Water Garden & Horticultural Society is a club for water gardeners or "ponders," open to beginners, advanced hobbyists, and professionals. It holds meetings with speakers, a question-and-answer session, a plant table, and refreshments, and some meetings take place at a nursery or a private water garden. Membership is per calendar year: $20.00 for a single membership or $25 for a family membership, which covers two people in the same household. The club can be contacted by email, and directions to the Banbury Community Center are available on its Contact Us page.

For anyone planning a waterfall, a local water garden club can be a practical source of first-hand advice on pump sizing, rock placement, and winter care in your area.

A pond, in the water-gardening sense, is a contained body of water you build and manage for plants, fish, or wildlife — not just a decorative fountain or waterfall. If you want to start one, the practical path is: pick a site with the right light and no runoff problems, choose a liner or preformed basin, add a pump and filter sized to the volume, plant it (lilies and hyacinth are common choices), and decide whether you want fish. Beginners in the Toronto area can shortcut a lot of trial and error by joining a local club such as the Greater Toronto Water Garden & Horticultural Society, which welcomes everyone from beginners to professionals.

What separates a pond from other water features

A fountain or waterfall is primarily a moving-water display. A pond is a living system: still or slow-moving water that supports plant roots, microscopic life, and — if you choose — fish. That difference drives everything else, because a pond has to hold water, cycle it, and stay in balance rather than just look good for an afternoon.

The core components

The club's own keyword list — pond pump, pond heater, pond filter — maps directly onto this set, which is a useful checklist of what a working pond actually needs.

Plants: lilies, hyacinth, and what they do

Water lilies and water hyacinth appear in the society's materials as standard pond plants. Their practical roles:

• Lilies root in the bottom and float leaves on the surface, shading the water and reducing algae.
• Hyacinth floats freely and draws nutrients straight from the water column, competing with algae for the same food.

Both are usually sold as plants you place rather than seeds you sow, so the decision is about coverage — how much of the surface you want shaded — not about germination.

Fish: koi or goldfish

The club's keyword list includes "koy" (koi), and the choice matters because it changes your filter and volume requirements.

• Goldfish are hardier, cheaper, and tolerate smaller ponds and wider temperature swings.
• Koi grow large, produce more waste, and need more volume, stronger filtration, and more careful winter management.

If you are new to ponds, goldfish let you learn the system before committing to koi.

Getting local help

The Greater Toronto Water Garden & Horticultural Society describes itself as a club for water gardeners or "ponders," open to beginners, advanced hobbyists, and professionals. Its meetings include knowledgeable speakers, a question-and-answer session, a plant table, and refreshments, and some meetings are held at a nursery or a private water garden — useful if you want to see working ponds before building your own.

Membership is per calendar year: $20.00 for a single membership or $25 for a family membership, which covers two people in the same household. The club can be reached by email, and directions to the Banbury Community Center are on its Contact Us page. It is one of over 270 societies in the Ontario Horticultural Association, District 5.

A realistic starting sequence

1. Site it. Pick a spot with the light your chosen plants need and away from where lawn chemicals or roof runoff would drain in.
2. Size it. Decide volume first — it determines pump, filter, and fish capacity.
3. Build the basin. Liner or preformed, with edges secured against soil washing in.
4. Add circulation and filtration. Pump and filter matched to volume and fish load.
5. Plant. Lilies and hyacinth for surface coverage and nutrient uptake.
6. Stock fish last. Let the water settle and the filter establish before adding fish.
7. Plan for winter. Decide whether you need a heater based on whether you overwinter fish.
8. Verify. Watch for green water, which usually means too much light and too many nutrients — more plant coverage and better filtration are the usual fixes.

Common sticking points

• Sizing too small. A pond that looks generous empty fills up fast once plants and fish go in.
• Skipping filtration. Still water with fish needs biological filtration, not just a pump.
• Ignoring winter. Cold-climate ponds need a plan for ice and fish survival.
• Planting before the system is stable. New ponds go through a green-water phase; plants and filtration bring it back into balance.

If you would rather learn from people who have already made these mistakes, a local society meeting is a low-cost way to see working ponds and ask questions directly.

A garden fountain is the moving-water feature that pushes water into the air or across a surface, and it can stand alone or sit inside a pond or water garden. It fits into a backyard water system by sharing the same water, pump, and often the same filter as the pond, so the fountain becomes one part of a larger circulation loop rather than a separate appliance. This explanation is for beginners planning a first water feature and for pond owners adding or troubleshooting a fountain; it draws on general water-gardening practice and on the Greater Toronto Water Garden & Horticultural Society (GTWGHS), a club for water gardeners from beginners to professionals.

Fountain vs. pond, waterfall, and water garden

These terms overlap, but they describe different jobs:

A fountain can be built into any of the others. A pond with a fountain is still a pond; the fountain is an accessory that moves water. A water garden may have no fountain at all if the goal is quiet plant display.

Common types of garden fountain

• Standalone fountain. A self-contained unit with its own basin and pump, not connected to a pond. Easiest to place and move.
• In-pond fountain. A pump and nozzle set inside an existing pond, spraying water upward. Uses the pond as its water source.
• Floating fountain. A pump and spray head that floats on the pond surface. No plumbing into the pond wall.
• Wall or spout fountain. Water emerges from a wall, statue, or spout and falls into a basin or pond. Often used where space is tight.
• Container or tabletop fountain. A small recirculating unit for patios, with a very small pump.

The choice depends on whether you already have a pond, how much space you have, and whether you want the fountain to double as aeration.

How a fountain connects to pumps, filters, and heaters

A fountain does not work alone. It needs a pump to move water, and that pump is usually the same one serving the pond.

• Pump. The pump lifts water to the nozzle or spout. If the pump is shared with a filter or waterfall, the fountain's spray height and volume depend on how the flow is divided.
• Filter. Water drawn for the fountain can pass through the pond filter first, so the fountain returns cleaner water to the pond. A fountain is not a substitute for filtration.
• Heater. In cold climates such as Toronto, a pond heater or de-icer keeps a hole open in winter ice. A fountain is normally shut off before freezing, because moving water and ice can damage the pump and nozzle.

The key mechanism: the pump creates flow, the nozzle shapes that flow into a spray or spill, and gravity returns the water to the pond or basin. If any part of that loop is blocked or undersized, the fountain underperforms.

What to consider when choosing a fountain

• Size and scale. A fountain should match the pond or basin; an oversized spray can empty a small basin faster than it refills.
• Water volume. More spray means more evaporation and more top-ups. Small containers need frequent refilling.
• Noise. A high spray is loud; a low bubbler is quiet. Choose based on whether you want a sound screen or a calm setting.
• Maintenance. Nozzles clog with debris and algae. Floating and in-pond fountains need periodic cleaning.
• Climate. In the Toronto area, plan to remove or store the fountain pump and nozzle before hard frost, and use a heater or de-icer to keep the pond from sealing completely.
• Wildlife and plants. Strong spray can disturb floating plants; a gentle fountain is easier to combine with lilies and hyacinth.

Common problems and fixes

• Pump runs but no spray. Check for a clogged nozzle or intake screen, and confirm the pump is getting power and is not air-locked.
• Spray is too small. The pump may be undersized for the nozzle, or flow is being split with a filter or waterfall. Reduce the number of outlets or use a larger pump.
• Water disappears too fast. Expect evaporation from any spray; check for leaks at fittings and in the basin.
• Winter damage. Remove the pump and fountain head before freezing, or keep only a heater running in the pond.

Where to get local help

The GTWGHS is a club for water gardeners, from beginners to advanced, and even professionals can join. Meetings include knowledgeable speakers, a question-and-answer session, a plant table, and refreshments, and some meetings are held at a nursery or a private water garden. Membership is per calendar year: $20.00 for a single membership or $25 for a family membership, which covers two persons of the same household. The club can be contacted by email, and directions to the Banbury Community Center are on the "Contact Us" page.

A water garden is a pond or water feature designed as a balanced living system, not just a container of water. What sets it apart from a plain ornamental pond is the deliberate combination of three elements working together: aquatic plants, fish (or other wildlife), and a filtration or circulation system that keeps the water healthy. If you're a beginner with a small backyard, the short answer is this: a water garden is part garden, part aquarium, and part small ecosystem — and it asks for regular attention, especially in the first year.

This guide explains what's actually involved before you commit to building one.

Water Garden vs. Plain Pond: What's the Difference?

Many people use the terms interchangeably, but there's a practical distinction.

A plain pond can be a simple lined hole filled with water and a fountain. A water garden goes further: the plants and fish are chosen to support each other, and the filtration exists to keep that relationship stable. That balance is the whole point — and the main source of work.

The Core Components You Need to Plan For

Before buying anything, understand the pieces a water garden is built from. Each one affects the others, so plan them together rather than one at a time.

Liner or preformed shell

You need a watertight base. Flexible liner (typically EPDM rubber) lets you choose almost any shape and is more forgiving for beginners who want a natural look. A preformed rigid shell is faster to install and easier to get level, but limits you to its fixed shape and size. For a small backyard, either works; pick based on how much design freedom you want.

Pump and circulation

A pump moves water, which prevents stagnation and supports filtration. It also powers features like a small waterfall or fountain, which add oxygen. Size the pump to your pond's volume and the height it must lift water — a pump that's too weak won't circulate properly, and one that's too strong can churn the water and stress fish.

Filtration

Filtration can be mechanical (trapping debris), biological (housing beneficial bacteria that break down fish waste), or both. Most beginner setups benefit from a combined filter. This is the component new owners most often underestimate, and it's the one most tied to water clarity.

Planting zones

Water gardens are usually planted in zones: marginal plants around the shallow edges, oxygenators submerged in the body of water, and floating plants like lilies on the surface. Each zone does a job — oxygenators compete with algae for nutrients, marginals soften the edges, and floaters shade the water to limit algae growth.

Edge treatment

How you finish the edge — stones, gravel, planted borders, or a beach-style slope — affects both appearance and how easily wildlife can get in and out. It's also the detail that makes a water garden look intentional rather than like a hole in the ground.

How Plants and Fish Interact — and Why Stocking Levels Matter

In a balanced water garden, plants and fish form a loop. Fish produce waste, which contains nitrogen. Beneficial bacteria in the filter convert that waste into forms plants can absorb. Plants take up those nutrients and grow, which in turn limits the nutrients available to algae. Fish also eat some algae and insects, and their movement helps distribute nutrients.

This loop only works if the numbers are right. Too many fish for the volume of water and the amount of plant life means waste builds up faster than the system can process it. The result is cloudy water, algae blooms, and stressed fish. Beginners should start with fewer fish than they think they want and add slowly, letting the filter and plants catch up. As a general principle, stocking depends on pond volume, filtration capacity, and plant mass — not on a single fixed number, so treat any rule of thumb as a starting point and watch water clarity as your guide.

The Seasonal Maintenance a Water Garden Actually Requires

This is where beginners are most often surprised. A water garden is not maintenance-free. Expect tasks across the year:

• Spring: Clear debris, restart the pump and filter, divide overgrown plants, begin feeding fish as water warms.
• Summer: Check water clarity, remove excess algae or decaying plant matter, top up water lost to evaporation, watch fish for signs of stress in hot weather.
• Autumn: Net falling leaves before they sink and rot, trim dying foliage, reduce feeding as temperatures drop.
• Winter: In cold climates, stop feeding, keep a gap open in ice if fish are present, and protect the pump and filter according to their design.

The workload is modest but real — think of it as a few hours a month in growing season, more during spring start-up and autumn clean-up.

Common Misconceptions to Drop Before You Start

• "It's maintenance-free." It isn't. The ecosystem does a lot of work, but it needs your help to stay balanced.
• "Any container of water counts." A bucket of water with a plant is a water feature, not a water garden. The defining trait is the managed balance of plants, fish, and filtration.
• "Bigger is harder." Often the opposite. Larger volumes of water are more stable and more forgiving of small mistakes than tiny ones, which can swing in temperature and water quality quickly.
• "I can add fish right away." New ponds need time for beneficial bacteria to establish. Adding fish too early is a common cause of problems.

Is a Water Garden Right for You?

Ask yourself three questions:

1. Space: Do you have room for the pond plus a planted margin and access for maintenance? Even a small backyard can work, but the pond shouldn't be crammed against a fence or under a tree that drops leaves.
2. Budget: Costs come from liner or shell, pump, filter, plants, fish, and edging — plus ongoing electricity and occasional replacements. Plan for the whole system, not just the hole.
3. Time and willingness: Are you prepared for seasonal upkeep and regular water checks? If you want zero involvement, a simple fountain or water feature may suit you better than a full water garden.

If you can say yes to all three, a water garden is a rewarding project that gives back far more than the effort it takes. If not, it's better to know now than after the liner is in the ground.