Website review
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What is Modern Farmer?
Modern Farmer is a digital publication focused on food, agriculture, and the relationship between farming and society. It publishes practical, how-to-oriented stories for people who grow things—whether on a small farm, a market garden, or a home plot—alongside broader cultural and environmental coverage of the food system.
Its homepage content leans heavily on seasonally timed advice and farming techniques. Typical article topics include:
- Permaculture and regenerative practices, such as starting a permaculture farm or integrating sheep into a pasture system.
- Crop planning, including succession sowing, interseeding, and what to direct sow versus start indoors in a given month.
- Variety selection, such as guides to heirloom tomatoes suited to farm stands.
- Land and soil management, like terminating winter crops without losing soil gains.
Who it's for
The mix suits several overlapping audiences:
| Reader | What they'd get from it |
|---|---|
| Small-scale or beginning farmer | Technique explainers and seasonal task guidance |
| Market gardener | Ideas for extending production and maximizing revenue per bed |
| Home gardener | Permaculture and seed-starting advice scaled down |
| Food-system observer | Reporting on agriculture's social and environmental context |
What to expect, and what not to
The tone is accessible rather than academic, and articles are often framed around a named grower's experience or a specific method you can try. That makes it useful for brainstorming and for timing tasks through the season. It is not a substitute for region-specific extension guidance, and because it covers a wide range of climates, you should treat planting calendars as prompts to check your own local frost dates and day-length conditions rather than fixed schedules.
A practical next step: if you're planning a season, use the site's month-by-month planting pieces as a starting checklist, then cross-reference with your local cooperative extension office for varieties and dates that fit your zone. For a broader look at farming and food culture alongside the how-tos, Modern Farmer is the source itself.
How can I start a permaculture farm?
Start with the land and water you already have, then design the farm so each element does more than one job. Permaculture farming means arranging crops, animals and structures so they support each other rather than relying on purchased inputs. Modern Farmer's permaculture coverage, including Briana Yablonski's guide to starting a permaculture farm, frames permaculture as a set of principles you can apply to a garden, a large landscape or a whole community.
A practical first season
- Observe before you plant. Spend a season or at least several weeks mapping sun, water flow, wind, frost pockets and existing vegetation. This is the classic permaculture "observe and interact" step, and it prevents expensive mistakes.
- Start with water and soil. Identify where water pools, drains or erodes. Swales, ponds, mulch and cover crops are usually cheaper and more effective than irrigation retrofits later.
- Choose a small pilot area. Fence, plant and manage one zone well before expanding. A quarter-acre that works teaches more than five acres that fail.
- Stack functions. A hedgerow can be windbreak, habitat, fodder and a source of cut flowers. A chicken run can till, fertilize and control pests.
- Add animals only when the system can feed them. Rotational grazing and integrated livestock are common permaculture tools, but they raise the management burden.
- Plan for succession and diversity. Modern Farmer's coverage of succession sowing and heirloom tomatoes shows the same logic: continuous sowing and varied crops spread risk and extend revenue.
Who this suits
- Small-scale and beginning farmers who want lower input costs and more resilience.
- Homesteaders and gardeners scaling up from a home garden.
- Landowners with degraded soil who want to rebuild it while producing food.
- Urban and peri-urban growers, since permaculture principles work in small spaces; Modern Farmer's interview with Brandy Hall covers applying them in urban settings.
Trade-offs to expect
| Approach | Strength | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Permaculture design | Lower inputs, resilient, diverse income | Slower to establish, harder to mechanize |
| Conventional monoculture | Simple, scalable, predictable | Higher input costs, more vulnerable to shocks |
| Mixed/regenerative | Balances both | Requires more planning and observation |
Your next step
Pick one underused area on your land and redesign just that patch this season: capture water, build soil, plant a diverse polyculture and record what happens. Use that record to decide whether to expand. For ongoing ideas and practical guides, Modern Farmer publishes farm-focused articles on permaculture, succession sowing and soil-building that can inform each season's decisions.
What is interseeding and how can it improve my farm?
Interseeding means planting a second crop into a field that is already growing something, rather than waiting for the first crop to finish and then replanting. The existing crop stays in place while you add another species between its rows or into gaps in its canopy. The goal is usually to keep living roots in the soil for more of the year, spread out your workload and income, and protect the ground from erosion and weed pressure.
Modern Farmer's homepage highlights an article titled "5 Ways Interseeding Can Change the Farming Landscape," which suggests the practice is discussed as a system-level change rather than a single trick. The same page also carries related pieces on succession sowing, no-till soil gains, and permaculture, all of which share the underlying idea of managing timing and plant diversity instead of relying on one crop at one time.
What it looks like in practice
- Row crops with a cover between rows. You keep your main cash crop and sow a low-growing legume or grass in the alleys, then mow or graze it later.
- Relay cropping. You sow the next crop into the standing crop before harvest, so the new seedlings are established when the old crop comes off.
- Overseeding into a standing crop. You broadcast seed, often before a rain or before the canopy closes, so the new plants establish under the existing cover.
- Perennial systems. You add compatible species to an existing pasture, orchard, or polyculture so the mix produces more function—forage, nitrogen, shade, habitat—than a single species would.
Where the benefits actually come from
The gains are not automatic; they come from specific mechanisms. More continuous ground cover reduces erosion and can suppress weeds by shading them out. Legumes in the mix can fix nitrogen for the following crop. Diverse root structures improve water infiltration and feed soil biology. Spreading harvest and labor across more of the season can smooth cash flow and reduce risk if one crop fails.
The trade-offs are real: competition for water and nutrients between the two crops, difficulty timing herbicide or cultivation around two species, extra seed and management cost, and the risk that the second crop fails to establish under a dense canopy. Interseeding rewards planning and observation more than it rewards equipment.
Who it suits
Small and diversified farms, market gardens, and operations already using no-till, cover crops, or rotational grazing tend to get the most from it, because they are already managing for soil health and staggered production. Large monoculture operations can use it too, but usually need to solve the competition and timing problems first.
A practical next step: pick one field and one clear objective—weed suppression, nitrogen, or an extra forage or cash crop—then read the Modern Farmer article Modern Farmer on interseeding alongside its succession-sowing guide. If you want broader context on soil-building systems, Rodale Institute publishes long-running research on cover crops and organic no-till that pairs well with this approach.
How do I use succession sowing to increase productivity?
Succession sowing means planting the same crop in small batches at regular intervals rather than all at once. Instead of one large harvest window, you get a steady supply spread across the season — which is the core of how it raises productivity per bed.
How to run a succession
- Pick the right crops. Fast, repeat-harvest or short-cycle crops suit succession best: salad greens, radishes, spinach, bush beans, baby root vegetables, herbs. Storage crops and long-season plants like winter squash or dry beans do not.
- Set an interval that matches the crop's days to maturity. Short crops can be re-sown every 1–2 weeks; slower ones every 3–4 weeks. The goal is to have the next planting ready as the previous one finishes.
- Reserve bed space. You need somewhere to put each new sowing. Many growers keep a dedicated succession block and re-sow a strip as soon as it is cleared, rather than dedicating the whole garden to one crop.
- Adjust for climate and day length. What you can sow depends on your local weather and how much daylight the plants will get. In warm regions, May planting is still viable; in cool regions, an April sowing may need to start indoors instead of direct-sown.
- Track it. A simple sowing log — date, crop, variety, bed — is what keeps a succession from collapsing into guesswork.
Why it increases productivity
- Less waste. One big harvest of lettuce or radishes often exceeds what a household or market stand can move before quality drops. Small batches keep supply matched to demand.
- Continuous revenue. For a farm selling at market, a rolling supply supports repeat customers over months instead of a single glut.
- Better use of space. A bed is replanted as soon as it empties, so the same area produces more over a season.
- Risk spreading. A bad week of weather or a pest flush hits one sowing, not the entire crop.
The trade-off
Succession sowing is more management, not less. You sow more often, keep more records, and need consistent labour through the season. It also demands reliable irrigation and fertility, because each replanting draws on the same soil. If your time is limited or your market is a single annual event, a few larger plantings may suit you better.
A concrete starting point
If you want to try it this season, choose two crops: one fast salad green and one 60-day crop such as bush beans. Sow a short row of each every two weeks from your last frost date until roughly 8–10 weeks before your first expected frost. Compare total yield and waste against a single large planting of the same crops — that comparison will tell you whether the extra sowing passes are worth it on your ground.
Modern Farmer covers this kind of practical growing in depth, including a specific guide to succession sowing and month-by-month planting advice: Modern Farmer.
Which crops should I direct sow versus start indoors in April?
April sowing decisions hinge on soil temperature, frost risk, and how much transplant shock a crop tolerates. Modern Farmer's April seed-starting guidance frames it as a regional split: in cool April climates, tender crops go indoors while hardy ones go out; in warm climates, far more can be direct sown. Modern Farmer
Usually direct sow in April
- Cool-season greens and roots: lettuce, spinach, arugula, kale, carrots, beets, radishes, peas, and onions from sets. These germinate in cool soil and resent transplanting.
- Hardy herbs: cilantro, dill, and parsley handle light frost once established.
- Warm-climate exceptions: in frost-free areas, beans, corn, cucumbers, and squash can go straight into the ground in April.
Usually start indoors in April
- Heat lovers: tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant — especially in cool regions where the season is short.
- Long-season brassicas: broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower, so they size up before summer heat.
- Tender herbs: basil, which sulks in cold soil.
- Tropicals: melons and okra in short-season areas.
A quick comparison
| Factor | Direct sow | Start indoors |
|---|---|---|
| Soil temperature | Cool-tolerant crops, 40–60°F | Warmth-demanding crops, 60°F+ |
| Frost risk | Hardy types only | Protection until last frost |
| Root disturbance | Avoided | Tolerated by tomatoes, brassicas |
| Best for | Roots, greens, peas | Fruiting crops, long-season types |
Practical next step
Check your local last-frost date and current soil temperature before committing. A simple soil thermometer is the cheapest decision tool here: if your soil is still below 50°F, keep tender crops indoors and direct sow only the hardy list. If you garden in a warm climate, April is your window to direct sow most summer crops and skip the indoor step entirely.
What are the best heirloom tomato varieties to grow on a farm?
For a farm, the best heirloom tomatoes are the ones that match your market, your climate, and your labor. Modern Farmer's own roundup, "11 Best Heirloom Tomatoes to Grow on the Farm," frames the choice around open-pollinated varieties that earn their place at the market stand — not just in a home garden. Start there for the specific list, then use the criteria below to narrow it to your operation.
What "best" should mean on a farm
- Market fit. Chefs and customers buy flavor, color, and story. A mix of beefsteaks for slicing, paste types for sauce and canning, and cherries for volume sales usually outperforms a single variety.
- Reliability over novelty. Heirlooms are open-pollinated, so you can save seed, but many are less uniform and more disease-prone than modern hybrids. On a farm, a variety that yields consistently beats one that wows in a good year.
- Season spread. Choose early, mid, and late types so harvest doesn't land in one narrow window.
- Climate match. A variety that thrives in one region can crack, split, or ripen poorly in another. Local growing experience matters more than reputation.
A practical way to decide
- Pick two or three categories: one slicing beefsteak, one paste, one cherry.
- Trial several varieties in a small block before committing rows to any of them.
- Track yield per plant, split resistance, and how well fruit holds after picking.
- Keep the winners and save seed from the best performers.
If you sell at market, taste-test with customers before scaling up — their preference is your best data. For the specific named varieties and growing tips, see Modern Farmer.
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